Rat Bug 101: it has to be low and that crap don't just happen by itself!

Beam work, 6 in. narrow cut and turn. Spare tires mounted just for size mock up.

Body back on for fitment check.

rear is still way up there

Built some 4in stepped spring plates and 1 outer spline, getting better..

The rear is pretty low now but the camber is way too much for me on a daily driver, I don't want to deal with damaged bearings and stripped drums so trans raise it is..3 in.
Also the front is still has to come down cause low is low and this isnt it!
pre trans raise camber.

Post trans raise camber.

Drop spindles added up front helping out.

In the process of going low up front the wheels end up on the headlight buckets when the control arms swing up far enough. There is a few ways to deal with this problem..
1 beat the ever loving life out of the buckets with a hammer
2 cut the buckets and remove about 1 inch of material then re-weld
3 move the frame head back.
I wanted to center the wheel up in the fender plus I think it's the only right choice so I went with door number 3. Relocate the frame head back a little over a inch. I will post more pictures later, going to be having surgery on my knee so I will be off for about a week and will be updating this post over the next few days.

Got to see my old junk in person... I love what Rick is doing with it.   

 

Thanks Russ and Rick, I'm glad to have it!

here is some more..
you can see the wheel is more centered in the fender opening, it's also way off the headlight bucket.

this is the reamer I used to flip the tie rods. I got this from Ace Hardware. They are cheap. Flipping the tie rod ends is needed when going real low to help reduce the angle of the tie rods.

 
There is a very big difference in angles that can be seen in the next two photos.
non-flipped

flipped

How much did you take off the tunnel?