Wtb a type 3 muffler locally. Does anybody knows who might have one? I hope i can get one before the meeting on the 7.  I have checked in all the known stores with no luck.

Its wider,  well i do have a beetle muffler but i don't have the tools to modify it

My bad. Yes the  flanges are at a wider position   It has the 1600 cc engine. Some call it the "pancake engine "

Im going to start removing the old muffler today i just hope i can make it work so i can meet you guys for the march club meeting.

PM'ed you ?   

To late!  i have 3 broken ones. Now to drill and tap. Will add some pic tomorrow. Anybody up for helping me out all i have is a 6 pack and a carne asada to offer.  Only if over 21

Arty,
Unfortunately you will probably need to pull the engine and get the heads off to drill out the studs properly.
I have done this and it is a genuine pain.
A large drill press is good for this, but it can be done with a steady hand and a portable drill.
IF you are lucky you can drill, step up, drill, step up, etc. until you have a paper thin "threads" left for the stud. then using a dental pick you can pull back the threads until there is enough to get some needle nose pliers on, then just curl the threads back and the stud will delaminate from the head...
Getting the initial "tap" from a punch as close to center as possible on the broken stud is critical.
I know that hind sight is 20/20, but a good penetrating oil and or a dremmel to grind the nut off the stud to begin with is your friend in this situation.
When you reinstall the studs, coat the portion outside the head with aluminum or copper anti-seize (Lamar at American Foreign sells it), a small can will last a LONG time.
(I use aluminum.)
If you get the initial drill off center you may damage the threads in the head, not to fear, you just have to over drill the hole (look up the size needed) and get a stepped metric stud (sold at ace hardware in Varnell or Dalton), just buy good high quality drill bits, they will pay for themselves in spades. You will also need a good metric tap for the larger hole, (the tap will have the correct sized drill bit needed printed on the package if you buy just one tap).
I hate it that you didn't ask before you broke the bolts.
-Note, sometimes when the flange for the muffler is removed there is enough of the stud for you to get a good bite with some vice grips. Put some GOOD penetrating oil (not wd-40) at the base of the stud where it goes into the head, keep as much off the threads as possible. Let this soak for as long as you can wait, several hours is good. Then get the vice grips and make sure they are TIGHT, and clamp them to the protruding broken stud, then do your best monkey arm impression. IF you have been living right the stud will back out and you are good to go.  I have a bout a 30% success rate with this, so do not get frustrated if it breaks off again closer to the head (other 70% of time for me).
This is a last ditch effort not to pull the heads (and engine) out of car.
Just remember that there are 4 more bolts just as nasty and rusted on the front of the engine where the heat exchangers bolt on. try some oil and or concentrated heat before you attempt to crack those bad boys off.
Just my $0.02,
KC

ASbug broke the news to you. Its not a fun road to go. If you decide to pull the heads, it might be just as well to go to a machine shop and pay to have them removed and replaced. The key to this will be not twisting off the ones of the front!

I have been trying to use copper nuts instead of steel nuts for my exhaust. They can be found at most of the parts suppliers in the metric sizes needed. The good part is that they will not be able to rust on and break your studs again. It's a tough lesson to learn, but I don't know of anyone who has turned a wrench on a VW and not experienced this.

We will help however we can.