Hey Zen, bad spot to be in there. Those bolts are broken quite often, usually they are rounded off and near impossible to turn to start with. The biggest obstacle in getting the remaining portion out is that there is a small amount of the thread taper still on the pin in the hole so even though you can spin it it will no come out. The cross pin in the diff. Is the ONLY thing that holds the axles in far enough to retain the C clip, if you could wiggle the clip out with the pin in place you would loose a wheel/ axle combo while driving. The pin-bolt is hardened steel as you can imagine and can be shattered/sheared off. What I have done in these situations in the past is to rotate the carrier 180 degrees to gain access to the other side of the cross pin, take a drift that is the size of the pin or a little smaller and beat it until 1 of 2 things happens... The retaining bolt/pin breaks and the cross pin comes out or the carrier housing breaks and the cross pin comes out. Just be careful to keep the pin from hitting the pinion gear or the housing once it moves..you can push it too far then the carrier won't be able to spin back around for you to take the pin all the way out. It seems to be a 50/50 on the broken carrier, however the alternative is to replace the whole axle assembly drum to drum. A used carrier is cheap in comparison. Once you get the C clip out and pull the axle you will probably find the bearing has cut into it and pretty much destroyed the surface. You can get a axle saver bearing that moves the bearing and seal( built into this type of bearing) out and to a unused portion of the axle, unless someone has already done this then the axle shaft will need to be replaced. I would suggest doing both sides at this time and to NOT use the paper gasket on the cover, they leak. Instead I use Ultra Black RTV, about a 1/4in bead and there won't be any leaks(provided the cover and housing are very clean and dry).
