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Topic: Weld-in adjusters ?  (Read 3525 times)

Offline jrcnova

  • Soddy Daisy, TN
  • Joined: Sep 2008
  • Posts: 761

Weld-in adjusters ?

« on: October 14, 2008, 02:10:36 PM »
I am going to order some weld-in adjusters for my ball joint front end here in the near future.  Are the ones made by EMPI about the same as say some from Mid America Motorworks?  I know the "new" EMPI seems to have a bad rep.

Offline Bugnut

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Weld-in adjusters ?

« Reply #1 on: October 14, 2008, 02:17:03 PM »
Buy the bugpack adjusters Empi is crap!!! No really the bugpack ones are nice and sturdy. Are you just doing adjusters or narrowed as well??Remeber adjuster come in Link Pin and ball joint as well.

Offline jrcnova

  • Soddy Daisy, TN
  • Joined: Sep 2008
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Weld-in adjusters ?

« Reply #2 on: October 14, 2008, 02:19:45 PM »
I am doing adjusters and 6" narrow.  This is one thing I have never done before and am going to attempt it.  With my skills, I don't think it will be too hard.

Offline Bugnut

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Weld-in adjusters ?

« Reply #3 on: October 14, 2008, 02:21:46 PM »
Is your car a balljoint car or link pin? What are you trying to accomplish?
How low do you want it? There are several "degrees" of lowered starting with adjusters,then drop spindles. Anything more than a lil will reqiure you to run 135's at least on the front. Depending on the width of the front rim and how low you go there's other factors as well,There's alot to it. Let me know what your shooting for and I can help ya out. Sorry to hijack your post,I got excited when it was a subject I knew sumthing about. :wink:

Offline jrcnova

  • Soddy Daisy, TN
  • Joined: Sep 2008
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Weld-in adjusters ?

« Reply #4 on: October 14, 2008, 02:23:08 PM »
LMAO  I am doing ball joint.  Just pm me your number if you want.  I could use your great knowledge!

Offline jrcnova

  • Soddy Daisy, TN
  • Joined: Sep 2008
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Weld-in adjusters ?

« Reply #5 on: October 15, 2008, 10:50:02 PM »
I never fully answered your questions.  I am narrowing a BJ front beam.  I have been doing some research and a 6" seems to be what most people run.  My only concerns would be clearance for the shock towers and if the steering box would mount correctly.  I want it low, probably about as low as yours but still be able to somewhat daily drive it.  I plan on sticking with stock wheels (ones with the 8 oval holes).  My only problem with that is I know I will need a low profile, but I'm leaning toward whitewalls.  I am not sure that the size I will need will come in a WW.  Anyway, hope that answers most of it.  If ya wanna help, I'd love it!

Offline certdubtech

  • In the Garage...
  • Joined: May 2006
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Weld-in adjusters ?

« Reply #6 on: October 16, 2008, 07:56:34 AM »
I built a beam that I ran in Scott's 62 when I owned it that was a 6" narrowed with adjusters and dropped spindles.  at 6", you actually cut off the shock towers and run without them.  Ride quality was pretty good at that.  I know that Scott's original beam in his 67 was a 4" narrowed also without shocks, and it seemed much more bouncy in the front than mine was.
tire size has as many correct answers as incorrect, Scott has played with a bunch of options, so he can probably best answer those questions.

Offline certdubtech

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Weld-in adjusters ?

« Reply #7 on: October 16, 2008, 09:27:22 AM »
And to clarify... the beam I built was a link pin but I narrowed it from the center which is how you would need to do a ball joint beam, so the frame head mounts, mounting bracket for the stabilizer and the locating tabs for the steering gearbox would need to be relocated outward, tie rods shortened and re-tapped.
 8)

Offline Bugnut

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Weld-in adjusters ?

« Reply #8 on: October 16, 2008, 11:05:41 AM »
Anythng past 4 inches and your not running front shocks. You can run shocks at 4 inches but only with custom side plates. 4 inch is about right for stock rims,6incher if you want to run 5inch wide rims. What do you mean daily driver? I drive mine everyday but then again you gotta get used to driving that low.

Sounds like you could use a 4 inch Beam with 135's up front.If you want real white walls in 135's they'll cost ya about $250 a tire from diamondback tires. Or order some atlas porta walls they work fine.

You can not narrow a ball joint beam from the ends!!!As Rick said it all has to come out of the center,hince the PITA. If you haven't done a narrowed beam I would stay away from your 1st being a ball joint beam.I really advise you to get someone who knows how to do them and pay them to do it. I mean it's only your life and all...just sayin. :lol: Oh and run drop spindles on it,That will help alot of other problems from popping up.

Offline Bugnut

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Weld-in adjusters ?

« Reply #9 on: October 16, 2008, 11:07:10 AM »
Quote from: "jrcnova"
LMAO  I am doing ball joint.  Just pm me your number if you want.  I could use your great knowledge!


My info is under my profile ,Holla if ya need to.

Offline Bugnut

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Weld-in adjusters ?

« Reply #10 on: October 16, 2008, 11:12:24 AM »
4 inch beam no shocks 135's on 4.5 rims. Daily driver status.
Balljoint beams are a bit bouncy compared to link pin due to the softer balljoint spring packs,with 135's it rides like a caddy. :lol:

Im considering putting my 67 back to stock since I have the 62 now.
If you find a money tree let me know I might sell the front end out from under it for the right price. :wink:

Offline jrcnova

  • Soddy Daisy, TN
  • Joined: Sep 2008
  • Posts: 761

Weld-in adjusters ?

« Reply #11 on: October 16, 2008, 12:14:14 PM »
How much would have to be on my money tree to aquire your beam?  Another question for you two...As my chassis is completely stripped, would it be easier to adjust the rear torsion now or wait until car is completed with all of the weight on it?

Offline Bugnut

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Weld-in adjusters ?

« Reply #12 on: October 16, 2008, 12:46:19 PM »
It would be easier to do it now. The picture I posted of mine is 2 outer clicks if thats too low then try 1 inner spline any less than that and whats the point? :lol:

I haven't really thought of a sale price for mine. I paid $450 (friend price)for it with spring packs installed.It was built By Mike Womack at Rousche racing.It's as solid of a beam as you can get.
I bought new tie rods and ends and shortend them,new Cb performance drop spindles,new trailing arms and balljoints etc.. It's pretty crazy how much cash you can tie up in one .I probably have close to a grand in the complete front end.

I'm not overly motivated to sell it because I'm still not sure what I'm going to do with the 67. Kinda depends on how much of it someone wants and what they offer for it. I'd probably sell the beam,springpacks and ties for $500. The drop spindles and the rest I'd probably sell for whatever it cost me to replace them.

Offline jrcnova

  • Soddy Daisy, TN
  • Joined: Sep 2008
  • Posts: 761

Weld-in adjusters ?

« Reply #13 on: October 16, 2008, 01:06:50 PM »
Then I suppose I will find a "how-to" and start lowering the rear.  I would really like to go as low as possible in the front and rear, still being able to drive the thing.  As far as ride quality, not a big concern to me.  I used to be heavy into mini trucks and have slammed as far as laying rocker.  I think I will just cut on my beam and save some dough.  I know it's been said a million times, but I am VERY budget minded as I have a 6 week old child and a wife that resembles Fort Knox.

Offline Bugnut

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Weld-in adjusters ?

« Reply #14 on: October 16, 2008, 03:03:29 PM »
Cant blame ya there,when in doubt weld some ore. Important thing is that it true and strong. As far as how low you can go the 67 pic is about as far as you can with out getting crazy.
No more than 2 clicks or you'll have your fulcrums screaming and they wont scream long before they die.

The rear is easy ,especially when the body is off. Keep your hands away from the spring plate there's alot of pressure on it. After it's lowered a few clicks then the pressure is minimal. It takes an hour to do the rear with hand tools and about 20 minutes with air tools after you done a few. :lol:
If the springplate is stuck on the splines hit it with pb blaster and gently pry it off. Dont hit the torsion bar very much with anything metal,bad stuff can happen. Remeber the torsion is a wound up spring of steal you dont want to see how it "unwinds" :shock: I you hit it with sumthin metal it can make a cute lil ringing sound right before it comes apart or so I'm told. :roll:

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