im lookin 4 a holly bug spray carb and an bosh oo9 ele dist. any ideas?
 :?

Are you thinking about putting the  009 and the bugspray on your '74 Super Beetle ?   Is your car running good now ?   If you want to see just how terrible it can run, install the bugspray/ 009.
    The bugspray was stock on the 40's -50's flathead V8 Ford and was the first 2 barrel carb offorded that folks tried to run on VW engines. Really, really bad. flood,flood,flood.  You can't just bolt on of these thing on. You would have to buy a intake manifold also. I have never remotely seen a good running bugspray. If your engine is stock and is running fairly good you had better leave it alone. Come to think of it ,I haven't even seen one of carbs on a running car in 30 years. Most of them are in someones junk box.
     The carb was fine as long as it was on a old flathead Ford.
   Your Call my friend.

Been there done that. Bugsprays suck,well mostly they leak and flood out.
you'd do just as well to sit and poor gas into a bare intake. :lol:

Im fonna beat the godfather out on this one he's gonna say stock???
 I'd say a Zenith NDIX or a single Weber or Dell. But then again I like working on my junk. :lol:

i dont want a hotrod bug. just one that is dependable to drive. i have a harley hot rod 100ci 6 speed 4 the fun of it. ride 100 mi work on it to get home.  so over it not even funney any more. so its not 4 speed. just the love of the bug
 :razz:

found a stock 34 guy is older and that is all he works on 4 fun (vw). 60 $ rebult and instaled adjusted and made right b4 leaveing

got factory rebuilt carb 4 50  installed and set. checked dist. workin good but ,  cam might b installed wrong. timming marks when on a light will not line up. looks as the cam may b one notch out. runs good when timed by ear but will not run timmed by light. will it hurt to run it as is ?  do i have to change the cam or can i change the dist by a notch to get marks right?

GW . . . I got your email.  I left you a voice message a few minutes ago.  Like 67Bugnut said . . . DON'T just time it by ear.  Air-cooled VW engines are very sensitive to timing.  If the timing is a little too late, the engine will run hotter and loose power.  If the timing is a little too soon, it'll run great, make lots of power and burn holes in the tops of your pistons in a hurry!

If you have a stock crankshaft pulley, be aware that there are several different ones.  What you think is your "top dead center" mark may not be top dead center.

It's common for all but the best engine builders to get the distributor drive shaft one tooth off when assembling the engine.  The little cog at the bottom of the distributor will only go into the slot on the distributor drive shaft one way . . . if the drive shaft is wrong and you pull it out to "fix" it, you may end up with a chewed up brass gear that can only be fixed by disassembling the engine.  If it's one tooth off, the best thing to do is leave that part alone and compensate by turning the distributor body a little to get the timing set correctly.  It's not really a big deal which way the drive shaft is in . . . as long as you end up with the spark happening at the right time.

You need to set the timing with a light under full advance (vacuum line hooked up if it's got a vacuum advance, and engine reved up to 2000 or so rpms).  Under full advance, the timing mark shoud be 32 degrees before top dead center.  Don't worry about where it is at idle.  You only have one setting that you can control.  If it's going to be off, you want it to be off when it's idling, not when it's going down the road wide opened!