Why would you convert to carb ? So you can drive it and not work on it. Its not IF it will break, Its WHEN it will break and it will often. All you have to do is look in the engine comp. at the spider web of expensive hoses. Just about any one of them will stop the engine if they have the slightest leak. Keeping the hoses on was a big problem. The engine could cough one time and blow all the hose off. These FI engines had a hard time living past 50K due to the EGR system dumping "junk" back into the crankcase via the air box. Take one of those "boxes " apart when you are rebuilding the engine and you will find about 2 cups of what looks like ground up Kitty- Litter which in turn hones out rings and bearings.
Check this out, A 1600 engine with a carb like a 71-74 is rated at 60 HP. A '75 up 1600 FI engine is rated at 46HP. The valves are the same size as a 40HP.
The engines that I converted due to very high and I mean high repair cost got about a mile or two less MPG than a FI engine in perfect condition. A small price to pay to have a car that has a fighting chance to perform for a long while without all the "coughing,splutting,hesitation" trying to out drag the Kenworth next to you at the traffic light. We won't talk about contant fuel leaks and possible engine fires (AKA) late Type-2's. Normal everyday drivers don't look in the engine comp. everyday or 50 miles, which ever comes first to see if things are OK. Of course contant maints. will help.
With the Emission CK's now , I don't know what to tell you,but I won't be converting anything back to FI anytime soon.
If you have a aircooled FI VW and it is seems to be running fine,leave it alone and drive it until it "Craps Out" . Convert or get a Federal Grant and a jug of "Old Barley Corn" and a roll of Tums
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