Okeyday,
I have the Bug back home and except for a sputter or two, it did well on the drive back.
Ok here is the Question?
The replacement Master Cyl. that I purchased didn't have a port large enough for the big brass restrictor/regulators that screw into the outlet ports (that were on the original...)  I looked at the MC ant it appeared that it had built in restictor regulators that were built in.  When we blead the wheel cyl.  We believe that we got all the air out, but it still seems that the pedal goes about 3 inches from the firewall before begining to apply the brakes.

At this point the brakes need to be stood on to engauge.  I have replaced everything except the hard lines and the drums.  The brakes are light.  We blead the lines numerous times and cannot figure out any thing other than the MC being incorrect.  It has the same # of ports and is the same size as the original, but the outlet ports are bored to a different size for the metal lines to screw straight to the MC.  The original MC didn't have any jets bored into the body like the new unit.  The original used three screw in brass modulators, but these could not be used in the new unit.

Any one else ever run into this? (VW tech?, CertDub.)
I believe that the MC I call original IS the OEM one that came off the assembly line.

Also the old shoes are rivited and the new ones are glued.  I am considering keeping the originals as they have 2/3 the amount of material that the new ones have. ( I have a Core of $5 ea. axle).

same as Lamar stated . Put it on jack stands and adjust the brakes out untill it takes a lil effort to move them ,then bleed it youll notice they now spin freely,adjust,bleed adjust repeat as needed until there good and firm. if that doesnt work you may have to try bleeding at the MC then at the lines.

If you want to be sure you have gotten ALL the air out, pressure bleed them.  You can spend a lot of cash on "real" pressure bleeder, but I've made a lot of them with an extra fluid reservior cap, an old valve stem and a piece of rubber (cut from an old inner tube or the like).  Cut a piece of rubber to fit the inside of the cap, drill a hole in the cap and rubber, shove the valve stem in from the bottom side.  You can glue it in with some type of sealer if you want, but I've made it work with just pressure.

Now, fill the reservior with fresh fluid, screw the cap on it, and then use some type small hand pump to put just a little bit of air pressure on the top of the fluid reservior.  It works best with a helper to keep a little pressure on the reservior without putting enough on it to bust anything, and to keep an eye on the fluid level.  Anyway, with pressure on the resevior, crack the bleeders one at a time until clean fluid with no air runs out.  The order you bleed them in doesn't really matter if you use pressure, but I still use the order RetBugtech suggested.  Not only does this get ALL the air out of the system, it gets all the old fluid out as well.  Fluid absorbs water over time . . . and over time that water causes corrosion.  If you change your brake fluid every two years or so, you won't believe how long the hydraulic parts of your brake system will last.

And as already suggested . . . Adjust the shoes tight, bleed (by whatever method you choose), back off on the shoes just enough so you can turn the wheels.  Drive a couple of days, re-adjust.  Despite popular belief, when you get 'em right, Beetle brakes will stand the car on it's nose.  Well, maybe not quite that good, but they will work great when you get them right.