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Topic: Starting problem  (Read 5762 times)

Offline MattB

  • Joined: Oct 2008
  • Posts: 48

Starting problem

« on: December 20, 2008, 09:51:12 AM »
Hi all,

I've got a weird problem with my '73 as was wondering if anyone had heard of anything like this.  In the morning when I try and start it, the starter turns the engine for a few revolutions then stops.  I can hear the starter trying to turn but the engine won't go round.  If I try and turn the motor by hand using the crankshaft pulley, it's very hard to make it move.  When I do manage to turn it I hear a hissing/gurgling sound.  After this, the starter will turn the engine for a few more revolutions before jamming again.  Again, turning by hand will free it up, and eventually the starter will keep running and the engine will start.

Once started, it'll misfire for a few minutes then run smoothly and I'll have no problems with it for the rest of the day.  It has plenty of power when running.

I've recently changed the spark plugs and wires, cleaned and rebuilt the carb, timed it and replaced the fuel hoses to and from the fuel pump.  The oil level is fine, the battery has plenty of juice and I'm fairly sure that the starter is good.

My guess is that one or more of the valves are getting stuck, so the piston is struggling to move in or out of the cylinder causing the engine to jam.  Once it's started and warmed up, the valve loosens up and runs fine.

Before I dive under the valve covers, does anyone else have any words of wisdom?

Many thanks,

Matt

Offline Ret.Bugtech

Starting problem

« Reply #1 on: December 20, 2008, 12:08:40 PM »
I doubt you have a stuck valve.  Thats kind of rare.  I would be more inclined to think you have a starter problem or maybe (this is kind of rare also) a carb  leaking Down overnight filling a cylinder up with raw gas locking up a cyl.  If this was going on I would think you would end up getting gas in the oil. You dip stick would start showing a higher level.
      The next time your engine does this don't turn the engine by hand. Crawl  under the car and rap the starter motor case a couple of good licks with a hammer and NOT ON THE   SOLENOID PLEASE ( the thingy with the wires on it) and try starting again.
     Oh, on the stuck valve thing, If you did stick a valve ,it more than likely would be stuck opened causing the engine to turn freely ( no compression).The valves will not hit  the pistons on a Bug engine.
     All this is just a few things to do because I'm not there to hear whats going on. These tips may or may not work. Let me know. :?:

Offline Zen

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  • LaFayette, GA
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Re: Starting problem

« Reply #2 on: December 20, 2008, 02:35:38 PM »
Quote from: "MattB"
If I try and turn the motor by hand using the crankshaft pulley, it's very hard to make it move.  When I do manage to turn it I hear a hissing/gurgling sound.


Quote from: "Ret.Bugtech"
I would be more inclined to think you have a starter problem or maybe (this is kind of rare also) a carb leaking Down overnight filling a cylinder up with raw gas locking up a cyl. If this was going on I would think you would end up getting gas in the oil. You dip stick would start showing a higher level.


I've had the problem with the exact symtoms you described.  Mine was due to gas leaking into the intake.  Like Ret.Bugtech said, it's kind of rare, but it does happen.  And when it happened, I did get gas in the oil.  It took a couple of days for me to figure out why the oil level kept inching up when I had a bad oil leak. :oops: Hearing a hissing sound from the compression leaking past the rings is normal wheny you turn it over by hand, but "gurgling" with it usually means there is a liquid involved.  Once it starts, it misfires for a bit then clears up?  Sounds like maybe it was flooded. :wink:   Also, did this start immediatly after you rebuilt the carb?

One other thing comes to mind . . . What kind of breather do you have on it?  Does it do it when the weather is dry or just when it's raining?  If it's got a stock breather, this won't have anything to do with it, but if it has one of those small chrome breathers with a paper filter, water can leak through the louvers in the deck lid and puddle up on the top of the breather, and leak into the intake.  I had that happen on a Baja Beetle once.  Just like gas (in liquid form) water won't compress.  If you get enough of it in a cylinder, it will lock it down.

Offline MattB

  • Joined: Oct 2008
  • Posts: 48

Starting problem

« Reply #3 on: December 20, 2008, 04:34:36 PM »
Thanks for the quick replies.  It's been running perfectly for nearly two weeks after I rebuilt the carb, it only started acting up the last few days when it's been wet.  I initially thought it was moisture in the electrics somewhere.  Interestingly, I've smelt gas strongly in the car the last few days as well - I assumed this wasn't related, but it may well be.  I checked the hoses and around the tank this morning but couldn't see any obvious leaks.

What could cause a gas leak into the intake? And how can I fix it? The oil level is above the high mark, so it may well be leaking.

I've also just had another look and there is some liquid on the outside of the carb under the choke.  I thought this was rainwater, but on further inspection I think it's gas (sure smells like it!).  There are two brass screws right under the choke that were not really tight, so I've tightened them to see if it makes a difference.

I think the breather is stock - small rubber hose that connects from the bottom of the air filter to right next to the oil filler cap.  I don't see any evidence of water in the bottom of the filter, but there is a lot of rainwater over the engine coming in through the louvres.

Well, I'll see what happens tomorrow!

Thanks again,

Matt

Offline Ret.Bugtech

Starting problem

« Reply #4 on: December 21, 2008, 01:05:36 AM »
The leak down can be caused by a faulty float cut off valve .

Offline MattB

  • Joined: Oct 2008
  • Posts: 48

Starting problem

« Reply #5 on: December 21, 2008, 10:52:22 AM »
I replaced that during the carb rebuild and it seemed to work OK, but I guess you can never tell.  If I take the top half off the carb I guess I can see if the fuel level is really high.

Offline Ret.Bugtech

Starting problem

« Reply #6 on: December 21, 2008, 11:00:14 AM »
I have found that a lot of the needle/seat float valves in the kits were not very good and would stick opened and not open at all.

Offline ASBug

  • Varnel, Ga
  • Joined: Jan 2008
  • Posts: 3032

Starting problem

« Reply #7 on: December 23, 2008, 11:37:25 AM »
I have had 2 floats go south in "new" off the shelf carbies.
One was a Honcho en Mexico that allowed fuel to enter into the plastic float and weigh it down, the other was a foam one that seemed to become sturated.  The 30/31 that I am now running has an oem needle and solex float in it.  the "new" HEM ones were garbage...
Good luck,
KC :D
Read all my postings for the reviews of the many carbs that I have cursed over the past few months... I get LOWER gas mileage out of the 30/31 than I did on the 34 pict3, but it doesn't flood and it'll idle now....
Great.

Offline MattB

  • Joined: Oct 2008
  • Posts: 48

Starting problem

« Reply #8 on: December 27, 2008, 07:03:05 PM »
OK, I had a good look at the carb today.  Firstly, gas is definitely leaking into the intake - the dipstick is showing oil right up to the top, and it smells of gas.  Also the carb itself has gas on the outside of it.  I can't easily see where it's coming from, but it's there.  

I took the top half off the carb to see if the gas chamber was overflowing, but it wasn't.  It was about half full.  The float moves freely and as soon as I pulled it off I saw some gas come through the valve into the chamber.  I tested the valve by trying to push air through it whilst I held the pin in.  No air came through.  When I released the pin, air flowed freely.  I'm fairly sure the valve is working fine.

There are two brass screws on the outside that weren't very tight so I've tightened these up.  I have no idea what they're supposed to do but the gas leak was somewhere underneath them - they look like bleed screws (when I remove them there's a hole through the end of the screw like brake bleed screws).

I've retightened everything else and put it all back together.. I'll see tomorrow if there's any more leaking & flush the oil.

Stay tuned for the next exciting episode...

Offline MattB

  • Joined: Oct 2008
  • Posts: 48

Starting problem

« Reply #9 on: December 28, 2008, 04:25:13 PM »
No luck, gas is still leaking into the manifold and outside the carb.  I've figured out where it's leaking outside the carb now - it's slowly dripping out of the ends of the rod that goes through the butterfly valve (has the throttle bit on the left and connects to the pump on the right).  I took the top off the carb again and saw where it was dripping into the intake - there's a small brass metal bar coming out of the left hand side and sits just under the main gas injector bit (sorry for the poor terminology!).  If I push the float down, lots of gas comes out.. so I'm guessing this is some kind of overflow from the gas chamber.

I put another washer under (about 2mm) the float valve in case it was sitting too high - it seemed to help a bit but it still leaks to some degree.

I'll go grab a new float valve this week and see if that solves it.

On the plus side, when she gets running she purrs like a kitten.. so at least you won't have to put up with me asking about ignition timing :D

BTW, to put a face to the name: http://www.volksfolks.org/forums/viewtopic.php?p=31334#31334

Offline MattB

  • Joined: Oct 2008
  • Posts: 48

Starting problem

« Reply #10 on: December 28, 2008, 04:33:54 PM »
Because a picture can tell a thousand words... here's the carb, and the two points that gas leaks out...



Drip drip drip...

Offline Bigdummy

  • Club Member
  • Ft Worth , Texas
  • Joined: Sep 2007
  • Posts: 780

Starting problem

« Reply #11 on: December 28, 2008, 06:59:59 PM »
Think its just worn out?

Offline MattB

  • Joined: Oct 2008
  • Posts: 48

Starting problem

« Reply #12 on: December 28, 2008, 07:15:17 PM »
Quote from: "Bigdummy"
Think its just worn out?


The carb? Possibly.. I don't know how long it's been on the engine, or even how long the engine has been in the car.

Offline MattB

  • Joined: Oct 2008
  • Posts: 48

Starting problem

« Reply #13 on: December 29, 2008, 08:24:33 AM »
I had a genius idea whilst brushing my teeth this morning... if the fuel cutoff valve wasn't working properly, it would let gas drip past through the idle system into the intake.  So I started her up this morning and pulled the wire off the valve when she was running, and she kept running.  I'll get a new valve today and report back later!

Maybe this thread should be renamed "Matt's brain's meandering thoughts" or something...

Offline Ret.Bugtech

Starting problem

« Reply #14 on: December 29, 2008, 08:37:50 AM »
You have some wear on the shaft causing the leak, but there is something else that is going on. Gas has to be coming from somewhere causing it to pile up on the butterfly. Not being there to look at it I can't be  sure whats wrong,
 but I still think you have a problem with the needle and seat(float valve) or the float . Like Big Dummy said maybe its just worn out but I don't know.

      You have the 30-31 carb. conversion with the adapter. If you replace the carb , replace it with carb just like the old one.  Your engine is suppose to have a 34mm carb but for god sake don't buy one of those.
      Mainly-Foreign says that there is no such a carb as a 30-31.  I guess I will have to show them  one .
         :lol:  :lol:
    F.Y.I.  A leaky fuel pump diaphragm can cause gas to fill up the crankcase

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