The problem with most old buses is that too many shade tree mechanics (like myself) have worked on them over the years. Sometimes we get the bright idea that we can squeeze out another mile per gallon or a couple of extra horsepower if we bypass, remove, or modify one or more of the systems that VW spent decades of research and trials to develop. From time to time we may actually get that extra mileage or horsepower, but there is almost always a price to pay for it. A "trick" that will get you an extra couple of horsepower when it's 75 degrees at sea level might cause you to have to walk when it's 30 degrees in the mountains.
In what many people consider the Air Cooled VW Bible, "How to Keep your Volkswagen Alive, a Manual of Step by Step Instructions for the Complete Idiot," John Muir advise us to remove the choke and just roll and smoke a cigarette while you are waiting for the engine to warm up. I've been told that John Muir lived in the desert and died of lung cancer. Instead of listening to Mr. Muir, consult a good VW manual, or better yet, a good, experienced VW mechanic (a.k.a. Ret.Bugtech :thumbs-up: ) and learn how optimize your engine for cold weather.
As for local parts stores that carry lots of air-cooled parts, you don't have many options. Mainly Foreign on Rossville Blvd. is about it for Chattanooga. They carry lots of common air-cooled parts, but they are VERY PROUD of them and depending on who waits on you, their customer service can su . . . ummm, . . . stink. In Cleveland there is Joe Kirtpatrick's store, Tri-State Imports. His prices are a better than Mainly Foreign and his customer is better. There is a store in Dalton, GA that I've heard people say is very good, but I can't remember it's name. Also in Dalton, I've bought several parts from Al Johnson's VW (Yes, A Real VW Dealership). Believe it or not, the last time I needed a carburetor, Al Johnson's had it IN STOCK and cheaper than either Mainly or Tri-State . . . A LOT cheaper than Mainly. In fact, AFTER TAX they were still over $10 cheaper than Mainly's PRE-TAX price.
On the oil . . . I've seen this question explode into an all out war on other forums. Personally, I use either Havoline or Castrol HD30 year round. I have found that if the temperature drops below 10 degrees, you better let the engine warm up fully before you rev the engine 'cause 30 weight flows about like play doe when it's that cold. When it's down in the single digits, you really need a "thinner" oil, but around here it isn't that cold often enough to bother with it. Other than blowing oil out the oil cooler seals when it was 5 degrees a couple of winters ago, I've never had an oil related problem using 30 weight. Whatever oil you choose to use, change it often.
