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Topic: Removing the master cylinder - What is the best way?  (Read 9059 times)

Offline eakanator

  • Rome, Ga
  • Joined: Apr 2004
  • Posts: 254

Removing the master cylinder - What is the best way?

« Reply #15 on: May 24, 2004, 11:59:28 AM »
I'll have to go back and look, I've got three different books, The complete Idiot book, Chiltons, and the other one you can buy at AutoZone or Advanced, my mind is slipping, one of them mentioned it, could have been the idiots guide, I think the person said you can adjust it, but it means you have problems somewhere else, I'll look tonight when I get home and see if I can find.
thanks for the tips and will get the new adjusters, I guess the adjusters should pull out?
Ron

Offline eakanator

  • Rome, Ga
  • Joined: Apr 2004
  • Posts: 254

Removing the master cylinder - What is the best way?

« Reply #16 on: May 24, 2004, 12:11:58 PM »
After re-reading your message, I don't attach to the wires but the terminals on the generator.. one lead to the D+ terminal, one lead to D-  side of the generator and then also attach the jumper wire from the lead that is connected to the D- side to a ground and then read the voltages if there is any.
Ron

Offline Ret.Bugtech

Removing the master cylinder - What is the best way?

« Reply #17 on: May 24, 2004, 12:28:16 PM »
Ron, Almost. connect the neg meter lead to the d- post on the gen. then the jumper lead to the meter lead/d-post to a good ground. The + meter lead to the gen D+ post. You do not connect anything to the original wires.
   OK on the red light. I think you are looking at the rear window defrost on/off light. Look under the dash around where the steering column is mounted and find the little black rocker switch. Turn on the ign. switch and flip it off and see if the light goes off.
   As far as the push rod goes,I don`t mean moving it inches.If this the case then you do have a problem.
  Press On
  David

Offline Ret.Bugtech

Removing the master cylinder - What is the best way?

« Reply #18 on: May 24, 2004, 12:45:06 PM »
Hi, Our post must have past in the air. You have got it right on the gen ck. Just be sure that if you get the off scale reading ,CUT THE ENGINE OFF NOW. You have about a 90secs before the gen. lights up. I have seen these gen put as much as 20 volts before they fry themselve. It looks like the 4th of July. This because of no load on the gen. VW would not approve of this test , but it worked for us.
   David

Offline eakanator

  • Rome, Ga
  • Joined: Apr 2004
  • Posts: 254

Removing the master cylinder - What is the best way?

« Reply #19 on: May 24, 2004, 02:11:57 PM »
Thanks for the tips & advice I do appreciate it.  As far as the pushrod, I guess what I mean is, as far as adjusting, we're talking of loosening the 13mm nut and adjusting the push rod in or out ?
Ron

Offline Ret.Bugtech

Removing the master cylinder - What is the best way?

« Reply #20 on: May 24, 2004, 02:45:10 PM »
Hi Ron, Correct on the push rod adjustment.
    David

Offline Zen

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  • LaFayette, GA
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Removing the master cylinder - What is the best way?

« Reply #21 on: May 24, 2004, 06:06:31 PM »
I've heard/read several different things on the pushrod . . . from never adjust it to always adjust it.  What I do now is just what Ret.Bugtech said . . . you usually don't have to, but it needs it, adjust it.  Before you adjust it, make sure that the pedal stop is set correctly and there isn't something (a small rock, 40 years of dirt, a wad of carpet, etc.) stuck between the stop and the pedal.

Offline eakanator

  • Rome, Ga
  • Joined: Apr 2004
  • Posts: 254

Removing the master cylinder - What is the best way?

« Reply #22 on: May 24, 2004, 08:19:12 PM »
well, found two things, one even though had this on another post, did find that the red light that was on was due to the rear defroster. thanks for the tip on that.
Second, there was no voltage coming from the generator, so hope to replace brushes first and see if this will cure the problem. If not, guess we'll have it rebuilt.
Thanks for all advice
Ron

Offline Ret.Bugtech

Removing the master cylinder - What is the best way?

« Reply #23 on: May 24, 2004, 10:18:34 PM »
Ron, Good luck on having your gen. rebuilt in this town. I may catch some flak from this,but I don`t of anyone who could rebuild a Bosch gen. and make It last anytime at all. You would better off getting a factory rebuilt GR-15X from a good dealer along with a new Bosch reg. Cost a little more but that will be the last of your gen. problems for long time
  David

Offline Ret.Bugtech

Removing the master cylinder - What is the best way?

« Reply #24 on: May 24, 2004, 10:32:34 PM »
Zen, Good show on the pedal stop, rocks and crap. I forgot to mention that. I think Ron is OK with his adjustment.
  Press On!!
  David

Offline vwherb

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  • McDonald, TN
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Removing the master cylinder - What is the best way?

« Reply #25 on: May 25, 2004, 07:59:02 AM »
Just to jump in here and ask a quick question of David, Would you recommend converting over to an alternator with a built in regulator instead of messing with the gen.?

Offline Ret.Bugtech

Removing the master cylinder - What is the best way?

« Reply #26 on: May 25, 2004, 09:25:25 AM »
Good Morning Herb, Not on your life. I prefer a gen. With having to mess around changing the wiring around, replacing the gen. stand with a alt. stand, even the fan sometime. It not all that hard to do, I don`t know what the avantage would be. The only thing I have heard is the alt. charges at idle. Amazing enough a Bosch gen will do the same thing. Another point is , The heavy rotating mass of the gen. seems to smooth out any balance problem with the fan. The much lighter alt. couldn`t handle this and we seem to replace more cooling fans and alt. bearings on alt. equiped cars after they slung the center out of the fan or all engine tin screws vibrated out due to a balance problem. I will most likely catch some flack over these comments,but this my story and I`m sticking with it. HA !!
  David

Offline Zen

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Removing the master cylinder - What is the best way?

« Reply #27 on: May 25, 2004, 06:08:35 PM »
According to all the self-proclaimed experts, an alternator will put out more amps at idle, and a LOT more amps at higher speeds.  If you think that it is a law that your stereo announces that you are coming from at least 1 mile away, and you've got a set of headlights off of the space shuttle that will instantly blind someone from 5 miles away, you may really need the extra power of an alternator.  For most of us, a generator will put out all the power we need.

In addition to the things David mentioned, there is another side benefit to a generator . . . If you put power to the D+ terminal and ground DF, it will run like a motor.  If you're out in the boonies by yourself with no cell phone service and you remember that you forgot to pick up a spare belt when the generator light comes on, with an alternator, your walking.  With a generator, you can get a little ways down the road using the generator to run the cooling fan.  How far this can get you depends on how good your battery is . . . and how much juice those high powered headlights and that killer stereo suck.   :cool:

Offline Ret.Bugtech

Removing the master cylinder - What is the best way?

« Reply #28 on: May 25, 2004, 07:41:37 PM »
Amen to that Zen. Matter of fact, when the service manager wasn`t watching, we would take the fan belt off on the 6 volt cars and put a jumper wire on B+ to the blue ind. light wire on the reg. to cool the engine down to adjust the valves. It took about  10 to 15 min. from really hot. When you were a flat rate mech, time was money.It beat waiting for a hour or two. By time you got the brakes adjusted , the engine was cooled down. What do you think?
    Press On !!
    David

Offline eakanator

  • Rome, Ga
  • Joined: Apr 2004
  • Posts: 254

Removing the master cylinder - What is the best way?

« Reply #29 on: May 27, 2004, 10:11:52 PM »
Alright! Replaced the brushes in the generator and cleaned the commuator( if that's how it's spelled) looks like it worked, the generator light went off. Question, even though this not a new generator, you think the voltage regulator should be replaced or OK? You read and think you all may have mentioned that if the generator is replaced, be sure to replace the regulator.
Also replaced the one set of bad adjusters, readjusted the front brakes, pedal feels better, will try to readjust back brakes over the weekend and re-bleed the system.
thanks
Ron

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