since I didn't have any brakes, thought I would start at the front and try to bleed, but no fluid comes out. Decided to change the master cylinder, got everything loose except the pushrod that connects to the brake. Pulled a clip off, but looks like I need to pull the brake return spring off, is this correct? one book, I think says, take the brake plate off. This really giving trouble. Any advice on how to get the push rod off the brake? Thanks..Ron

Ron,

The master cylinder is not as complicated as it looks.  After you have take the two feed hoses from the reservior loose, take the steel lines loose and unplug the two switches.  From there, just loosen the two bolts that hold the master cylinder to the firewall.  DO NOT take the bolts all the way out or you will drop the spacers down inside the firewall.  Once the bolts are unthreaded, the master cylinder will pull straight out.  The push rod will stay connected to the pedal.

Just a couple of things I'd like to add before you finish this job . . .

DO NOT use anything but good German blue brake reservior hose to connect the reservior to the master cylinder.  Fuel hose and other types of rubber or plastic hose will not hold up to brake fluid.

The best way to bleed brakes (and only way you'll ever want to do it after you've done it once) is to pressure bleed them.  You can spend lots of $$$ on a professional pressure bleeder, but with a small bicycle hand pump, a used valve stem, and an extra reservior cap you can make one that will do the job.  All you need to do is put a little pressure on the reservior and then open the right rear bleeder untill clean fluid runs out, then got the left rear, right front, left front.  Make sure you don't run the reservior dry and don't put too much pressure on it or you might bust the reservior.  This way there is no pumping involved, and you get ALL the air out, plus you put clean fluid all the way through the system.  Brake fluid absorbs water from the air and over time it causes problems.  The fluid is supposed to be changed out every two years to avoid problems . . . of course very few people actually change it as a preventive measure.



Edited By Zen on 1085186788

Hi, I have been following your introduction to VWs with interest.What a trip you have embarked on !!  About your brakes. With the age of the car, I think I would replace all four of the rubber flex hoses. Over time these can collapse inside and you would never know it from the outside. This problem can cause some very interesting results such as pulling brakes,wheellock, drag, lots of smoke much less wondering why while bleeding you get more fluid from one or little or none from another one. I would check the front to rear metal brake at the pedal cluster for rust out. You can lift it a little and if falls apart,WELL !!! Best now than into the back of a new Lexus. As far as to bleeding the system,Zens "pump thingy" works great. I made one like it a long time ago. The only thing I differ on is the way you bleed the 2-stage m.cly. When I was in factory VW training years ago, we were told to bleed the system(pumping the pedal) starting with the Rt front, Left front,Rt rear then left rear. This had something to do with the way the twin pistons in m.cly. was setup to work. I have done it their way and the old way and it seem to take longer to bleed the system when you started with the rt. rear. With Zens "thingy" it doesn`t  matter. After 40+ years of  good times and some flustrations caring for these "Little Varments", The best tip I could give you would be to have patients. All old VW are living creatures and still they forgot who won the war.So, approach with caution. They can still bite you. Good Luck
    D.J.

Hi Zen, I guess I should have explained  what happens in the hoses when they fail,but you got it right. It seems to me that the super beetle was the worse for this problem. I was going to explain a few other problems but I had a heck of a time trying to get on the forums that I forgot what I was going to say. Old f--t syndrom I guess

Hi Ron, Did you adjust the brakes before you bled them ?  If not ,do it now and see if the pedal comes up. How much free play do you have between the push rod and the master cly.? It should be around 1/8" to 1/4". The push rod is adjustable. If this doesn`t work, bleed your brakes the correct way. Rt.front, Left front, Rt.rear, Left rear.  This the way we were taught in VW factory tech school.
   Press On
   David      PS I hope you put some of lube on the adjusters

Ron, Does the red light above the gen. light have any letters on the face of the speedo?  This light could be a temp warning light for the  ATF fluid on a Automatic Stick shift. Some VWs in 68,69, 70 came with these speedos even if it was a manuel shift. VW in all their wisdom connected these lights together sometimes driving everybody nuts. Its very possible that when you solve your gen. problem this light will go out along with your gen. light. Go figure.
    Tip on checking your gen, ( NOT ALT.) if you are brave enough.We asume all the wires are connected up CORRECTLY at the reg. ( under the back seat on your car).Got a volt meter with clip on leads?
     Disconnect the 2 wires on the gen(leave the brown wire alone)
     Connect the positve (+) meter lead to D+(left side looking in)
     Connect the neg. meter lead to D-. Take small jumper wire
 and connect to D- ( on the meter lead if poss.) then to a good solid ground ( brown wire at back of gen if you have one)
     Set your meter on 25volts DC
   
     Get mama to start car .Rev the engine up and watch the meter . If the meter flies off the scale or your dig. meter jumps to 15 volts or more , CUT THE ENGINE NOW. If you get no reading its gen. time. If you have any brushes left at all,Its going to be bad field coils.

    If you did get a reading, Its most likely the reg. Replace reg with BOSCH only. That goes for the gen if needed .DO NOT POLARIZE REG.

    If you need a gen.PLEASE put a new reg on anyway.Most burn up gen. are caused by the reg. Trust me on that point

    Again we assume that all wires are connected CORRECTLY.
    If you are not sure , don`t do this test

    Well I guess I got you confused to the max. I hope not
    Press On
    David

Most of it makes sense, just to clarify, I connect  the D- wire from the generator to the negative lead (we'll say the black lead)on the voltage meter,
then take a jumper from the Black lead of the meter and attach it to a solid ground (which, if I have, would be a brown wire on the back of the generator, if I don't have a Brown wire then attach it to something or somewhere that is grounded.
As far as I know the wires are connected correctly, on the speedo, it's not letters,  but I think a symbol, looks like some liitle curley q's.
Ron