Possible reason why it wont idle? lol

74loaf · « **on:** June 18, 2008, 08:27:54 PM »

well, I noticed last night that the rubber boots on my intake piping looked a little cracked and worn out, so I decided to replace them today. it was only then that I saw just how rotted they really were! :shock:

Heres the new boots on the intake piping:

And heres what the old ones looked like after removing them.... You think they leaked much? :lol:

I havent had the chance to start it up yet to see if there is any difference, but I am betting it will be noticeable lol I also bought some new exhaust port crushrings to put on hopefully this weekend...

ALSO..... Can anyone help me figure out what kind of carb I have?? all I know is that there is a tag on it that says L 6549

Ret.Bugtech · « **Reply #1 on:** June 19, 2008, 08:58:03 AM »

Yep, This will cause a ldle problem. Your carb is a Holley/Weber progressive carb and was used in the kits to convert old Type-4 twin carb and injected engines. Common.
Good luck on your exhaust rings and DO NOT break any studs off . [-o< [-o<

74loaf · « **Reply #2 on:** June 19, 2008, 10:42:04 PM »

well, I got the heater box off the side that was leaking.... and NO BROKEN STUDS!!! :lol:

You better BELIEVE I kept soaking and soaking those bolts down with solution before taking them off... however I did have one that took the stud out with it (could be worse I suppose!)

Now to those INFERNAL copper crush rings!!!!!
one happened by luck to fall right out as soon as I touched it... the other was stuck so tight I could only get it out after about an hour of chiseling it in half on one side and pulling it out with pliers...

NOW... heres the milion dollar question....
HOW do you get the new ones to stay up there while putting the heater box back into place?? I've been thinking of everything from rubber cement to toothpaste but havent tried any yet until asking....

HELP!

Gobusgo · « **Reply #3 on:** June 20, 2008, 02:37:14 AM »

I think mine were tight enough to stay in place, but you "might" be able to try a thin film of lithium grease to create a little stickiness. Don't know if it will work or if it will cause a problem though...David?

No, I remember now...I think I installed mine back on with the engine on an engine stand. Don't think I did it with the engine in the bus.

Ret.Bugtech · « **Reply #4 on:** June 20, 2008, 07:44:55 AM »

Hey ! Use any sticky stuff you have. Just make sure its not something that will dry on you before you get the box mounted.
Don't forget about cleaning, filing, the ends of the pipes or all this will be for naught.
You got lucky.

Bigdummy · « **Reply #5 on:** June 20, 2008, 07:46:30 AM »

Robert , Just got your message, I would try the greas method that gobus spoke of.....

74loaf · « **Reply #6 on:** June 20, 2008, 07:05:21 PM »

well, I ground the heater box mounting surface smooth, put the heaterbox back on carefully today, making sure the rings were sealed just right... and fired it up.....

And I can now say it leaks exhaust just as much as it did before...popping and all.. SO...

Oh, and I also noticed while the heater box was off that the exhaust valve in the drivers side front cylinder (towards the front the bus) was covered in a sort of white build u of heavy crust looking stuff.... the other cylinder next to it was normal looking. I am wondering if I have a cracked jug or something, but it would be nice to have someone else take a look at it while running to confirm this.

I am thinking that with this issue and as much oil as the motor leak, that i is probably just best to pull the motor and rebuild it. but thats just my opinion... :lol:

Ret.Bugtech · « **Reply #7 on:** June 20, 2008, 09:17:24 PM »

Why don't you do a compression ck.

Ret.Bugtech · « **Reply #8 on:** June 21, 2008, 12:06:50 AM »

You should have a compression reading somewhere around 110- 120 lbs
to be in the normal range.

74loaf · « **Reply #9 on:** June 21, 2008, 05:12:58 PM »

well, heres theresults from my compression test:

Cyl #1 105 psi
Cyl #2 105 psi
Cyl #3 80 psi :shock:
Cyl #4 @10 psi (did 4 tims to confirm) :cry: ( I guessed 10 psi because the first mark on the guage is 30 psi)

swagginjello · « **Reply #10 on:** June 21, 2008, 08:14:08 PM »

sorry to hear the bad news...

Ret.Bugtech · « **Reply #11 on:** June 22, 2008, 09:35:31 AM »

Well there you have it. You are looking at LEAST a valve job but things could be worse. You won't know until the cyl. heads come off. You might need a cyl. head , pistons and cylinders , and god only knows what else, Possibly a complete rebuld. These are not cheap engines to overhaul.
Think about this, You also have a issue with the automatic transmission that MIGHT need rebuilding or replacement.(I'm only guessing here) This could be costly. I guess what I am asking is , Are you willing to put that kind of " funds" into this van and rebuild the engine only to have to pull it back out to deal with the transmission ? Is this van worth all of this expense to you? Sorry, I'm a realist and have been through this many times before with my customers. I'm giving you the worse scenario and only taking the engine down can you be sure what has happened and what to do if anything.

74loaf · « **Reply #12 on:** June 22, 2008, 11:07:27 AM »

lol yes it is worth it to me... and I just sold my boat so I have some extra money around to work with... I'm trying to debate whether or not it is worth it to rebuild it myself or spend the $2200 for a new motor (heads, bearings, piston, etc)

From your own experience, who sells the most reasonable rebuild kit for the money?

Bugnut · « **Reply #13 on:** June 22, 2008, 02:52:05 PM »

The only problems with a crate motor is if there is a problem you can bet your on your own. Shipping and core charges are a pain. Its usually turns out about the same to buy theparts and have it assebled localy.

74loaf · « **Reply #14 on:** June 22, 2008, 04:29:20 PM »

well theres no core charge for these... just flat $2400 shipped

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VW-TYPE-2-4-412-LONGBLOCK-BUS-ENGINE-MOTOR-1800-W-CARB_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33615QQihZ015QQitemZ250198238061QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

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Topic: Possible reason why it wont idle? lol (Read 5922 times)

74loaf

Possible reason why it wont idle? lol

Ret.Bugtech

Possible reason why it wont idle? lol

74loaf

Possible reason why it wont idle? lol

Gobusgo

Possible reason why it wont idle? lol

Ret.Bugtech

Possible reason why it wont idle? lol

Bigdummy

Possible reason why it wont idle? lol

74loaf

Possible reason why it wont idle? lol

Ret.Bugtech

Possible reason why it wont idle? lol

Ret.Bugtech

Possible reason why it wont idle? lol

74loaf

Possible reason why it wont idle? lol

swagginjello

Possible reason why it wont idle? lol

Ret.Bugtech

Possible reason why it wont idle? lol

74loaf

Possible reason why it wont idle? lol

Bugnut

Possible reason why it wont idle? lol

74loaf

Possible reason why it wont idle? lol

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