Forums

Topic: no clutch disengagement  (Read 4577 times)

Offline lonnie1952

  • Joined: Feb 2009
  • Posts: 18

no clutch disengagement

« on: February 18, 2009, 12:12:48 PM »
Good Morning Everyone
Maybe someone can help ? I purchased a 68 bug that would not shift into gear.
When the engine is NOT running the shifter will go through Every gear.
When the engine is running when you depress the clutch pedal there is Little or no resistance and it would need to grind or be FORCED into gear which I wont do. With the engine not running you can depress the pedal and see the clutch fork move. the cable was adjusted with the Wing nut all the way tight. I pulled the engine and the pressure plate fingers look ok..NONE bent..the throwout bearing is there smooth and on the fork..and the proper throwout bearing/clutch/pressure plate is installed.
I noted that the BOWDEN tube is missing. Could a Missing Bowden tube in Effect make the clutch cable TOO LONG and not fully depress the throwout bearing/ pressure plate causing lack of engagement ?
Please help
thank you
1952   :?

Offline travisyoung

no clutch disengagement

« Reply #1 on: February 18, 2009, 12:18:47 PM »
Is the clutch in one piece?,  I have seen the disc come apart and cause this.

Offline lonnie1952

  • Joined: Feb 2009
  • Posts: 18

no clutch disengagement

« Reply #2 on: February 18, 2009, 12:25:58 PM »
Quote from: "travisyoung"
Is the clutch in one piece?,  I have seen the disc come apart and cause this.

The disc is in Great shape
There is Little or no pressure on the clutch pedal yet  the pedal will move the fork....but maybe not far enough
there is NO difference in pedal pressure now that the engine is out and it is only moving the throwout bearing and fork.
When I stand in the pressure plate it has resistance.

I am thinking that without the Bowden tube the Cable is in Effect too long to depress the pressure plate
1952

Offline travisyoung

no clutch disengagement

« Reply #3 on: February 18, 2009, 12:44:17 PM »
I would think the sleeve for the cable could affect the performance, also the sleeve should be attached to the trans.  The cable couild also be stretched.  Did you buy the vehicle in this condition?

Offline lonnie1952

  • Joined: Feb 2009
  • Posts: 18

no clutch disengagement

« Reply #4 on: February 18, 2009, 12:50:39 PM »
Quote from: "travisyoung"
I would think the sleeve for the cable could affect the performance, also the sleeve should be attached to the trans.  The cable couild also be stretched.  Did you buy the vehicle in this condition?


I purchased the bug this way..he was (previous owner) frustrated after installing a new trans...the old one was jumping out of gear in reverse.
So he Installed another trans and now he cant disengage the clutch
So he got rid of it in frustration. Like I Said the Bowden tube is Long Gone
 I know the Bowden tube will take up about another 1-2" in length
that may be all that is needed ?
The clutch WORKED with the Old trans..Something Happened with the install
1952

Offline Ret.Bugtech

no clutch disengagement

« Reply #5 on: February 18, 2009, 12:54:47 PM »
You have to have the flex-tube for sure to eliminate a severe Clutch chatter.  Be sure to have about 1" bow (pre-load) from the tube on the chassis to the bracket on the tranny. The cable should be adjusted to where you have about 3/4" to 1" free play at the pedal. I don't know why someone would leave the flex-tube off unless someone installed the wrong size cable.
     Not having the tube would appear to make the cable seem to long.
    Be sure to put a little lube on the main shaft splines before installing the engine and put some lube down the flex-tube also. Just slip the tube over the cable.( Would be a little easier with the engine already out).
    Let us know how you make out.

Offline Zen

  • Show Chairman
  • Club Member
  • LaFayette, GA
  • Joined: Dec 2001
  • Posts: 8842
  • Liked: 2 times

no clutch disengagement

« Reply #6 on: February 18, 2009, 12:56:55 PM »
There may be other problems, but you definitly need the Bowden tube.

Offline lonnie1952

  • Joined: Feb 2009
  • Posts: 18

no clutch disengagement

« Reply #7 on: February 18, 2009, 12:59:47 PM »
Quote from: "Zen"
There may be other problems, but you definitly need the Bowden tube.


so what other problem might I have ?
I only want to reinstall th engine One time...lol
Thank you
1952

Offline Zen

  • Show Chairman
  • Club Member
  • LaFayette, GA
  • Joined: Dec 2001
  • Posts: 8842
  • Liked: 2 times

no clutch disengagement

« Reply #8 on: February 18, 2009, 01:08:48 PM »
I didn't mean that I suspected you had other problems, but until you replace the Bowden tube, you will never know.  It sounds like the missing Bowden tube IS the problem.  Follow Ret.Bugtech's advice and you should be fine.

Offline Ret.Bugtech

no clutch disengagement

« Reply #9 on: February 18, 2009, 01:29:41 PM »
I just saw the other post.  Do you have the bracket that bolts to the tranny or did the P.O. leave it off also ? You answered your own question. Unless the "new" tranny has a internal problem which would show up as soon as you drive it , I can't really think of a "other" problem that wouldn't be obvious . If it were me ,I would put the flex-tube on and go for it. I bet that will fix it.

Offline lonnie1952

  • Joined: Feb 2009
  • Posts: 18

no clutch disengagement

« Reply #10 on: February 18, 2009, 01:56:19 PM »
The Bracket the end of the Bowden to goes into is there. the bracket that holds it to the side of the case is missing as well as the tube.
I think it best to buy a Tube/Bracket/cable to be safe.
I pulled the engine thinking the worst..maybe a broken clutch fork or Pressure plate. After not really seeing much wrong I started doing a little research and found the missing Bowden tube.
The engine needed to come out anyway...the KID who owned it Cut up the rear Apron and rear deck lid to install a Stinger in the bug... :roll:
Pulling the engine was pretty easy and a Good experience for me as I know NOTHING about VW stuff :cry:
This will be a good Learning curve for me
I want it stock so I ordered a new Apron and Already have a good Deck lid.
It also Has a SWAY/Zbar that I need to get the loose parts for. It is disconnected and laying in there Loose
Since it is a early 68 with the trunk release on the driver side and still has the Original California Black License plate I would like to keep it Original
Any way thank you very much
Zen..........Bugtech.you are both very helpful   :D

1952

Offline lonnie1952

  • Joined: Feb 2009
  • Posts: 18

no clutch disengagement

« Reply #11 on: February 18, 2009, 02:33:43 PM »
Quote from: "Ret.Bugtech"
I just saw the other post.  Do you have the bracket that bolts to the tranny or did the P.O. leave it off also ? You answered your own question. Unless the "new" tranny has a internal problem which would show up as soon as you drive it , I can't really think of a "other" problem that wouldn't be obvious . If it were me ,I would put the flex-tube on and go for it. I bet that will fix it.


what does PO   mean ???
1952

Offline Brian

  • Club Member
  • Ooltewah, TN
  • Joined: Jan 2005
  • Posts: 1744

no clutch disengagement

« Reply #12 on: February 18, 2009, 03:05:00 PM »
Quote from: "lonnie1952"

what does PO   mean ???
1952

Previous Owner

Offline Zen

  • Show Chairman
  • Club Member
  • LaFayette, GA
  • Joined: Dec 2001
  • Posts: 8842
  • Liked: 2 times

no clutch disengagement

« Reply #13 on: February 18, 2009, 04:23:33 PM »
Quote from: "lonnie1952"
. . . I know NOTHING about VW stuff . . . I want it stock . . . I would like to keep it Original . . .


Based on the last two statements quoted above, you already know more about VW stuff than you think!   8)

Offline Ret.Bugtech

no clutch disengagement

« Reply #14 on: February 18, 2009, 04:43:35 PM »
If you are talking about the "Bar" across the tranny on the rear, It is not a sway bar. Its a aux. overload bar. In '67 The rear axles were longer and the rear torsion bars were not strong enough to hold up a full load in the rear of the car so VW added this bar to help out. The early '68's carried this bar until they finely installed stronger torsion bars in the middle of the year.Those things were a pain in the arse because all they did was rattle and bang because the bushings would come apart in about a year and at that time VW could not supply enough parts to fix them. When I was at the dealer they told us just to take them off. Now would be a great time to take yours off. They are worthless .
    Lonnie, Do not be afraid to ask any kind of question. Some one here will help you out without leading you down "The Garden Path".
    Where do you hang your hat ?

There was an error while liking
Liking...

About Us

Chattanooga's oldest and largest club for air-cooled and water-cooled Volkswagens, since 1998. Join Us

Follow Us

© 1998-2025 Scenic City Volks Folks