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Topic: more grease and hello  (Read 8329 times)

Candace

more grease and hello

« on: October 21, 2004, 06:02:27 PM »
I saw the post about grease, and I figured my van probably does need some sort of lube since everything that moves is s-t-i-f-f. Question is: what kind of grease do I get? And do I use the same grease on everything? And must I purchase a grease-putter-oner or can I just glob the stuff  on with my fingers?
Hope ya'll excuse my ignorance. I'm a new, yet dedicated, VW owner and I want to do everything I can to make my van last a long time. I also want to do as much work myself as possible, so I may be frequenting this site.
Also plan to join - when I get time away from classes and kiddos to get to a meeting. The events look like much fun!

Offline Bugz

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meetings

« Reply #1 on: October 21, 2004, 06:38:55 PM »
Hey!  Don't worry about the kids - bring 'em with you to the meetings, several of the members have kids of varying ages that they bring. You and yours would certainly be welcome. We have a new meeting place and time for November so check the events section of the forum for updated info on that. As to the other grease question... I'm sure one of our resident VW guru's will answer shortly.
Also, you can pick their brains at the meetings too - and we'd sure like to see your camper!

Offline Ret.Bugtech

more grease and hello

« Reply #2 on: October 22, 2004, 08:40:28 AM »
Hey There,  What year is your van?   Anything after 1967 only has 4 real grease fittings from the factory. These are on the front axle beam. Any thing else can be lubed with an squirt can of oil,like hinges, levers, linkages,cables etc etc.  If your steering is really,really hard to deal with,I would have someone check out your ball joints and your steering sector box. As far as a " grease putter oner" , you can buy a hand pumper grease gun at a auto parts or go to a Jiffy Lube etc and tell them to lube the front axle. It just depends if you want to roll around in the mud/grime to do this yourself.  If you have a older van, we need to talk some more. You really need to join up with us. We have a great time and you will not meet a nicer bunch of VW folks/nuts. There are a lot of van/campers among this crew,so help is not very far away at anytime. So, What are you waiting for ?  Young`un are welcome and are not sold into slavery unless its called for.  :lol:

Candace

grease and slavery

« Reply #3 on: October 22, 2004, 02:46:24 PM »
Thanks for the grease advice. The steering wheel is not bad and the front axle can't be bad cause I just had it replaced, along with the two joints. So I think they're good to go. I'm talking more about the interior stuff and hinges, and whatnot. And the gear shifter. The gear shifter isn't real bad, I just thought some grease might get it a bit smoother, but then again, maybe it's just one of those VW things. I'm also interested in a place to purchase parts. I have a JC Whitney catalog, but I'm looking for knobs and such. Plastic parts that break. My van is a '77 campmobile. I don't mind rolling around in the grime. I figure it's a requirement for owning a VW. I want to learn how to do it all and I know that will involve ruining clothes, getting nasty, and banging knuckles. But oh the rewards!
Meetings sound good. I will bring kiddos if I need to. The last meeting coincided with mid-terms, so I couldn't spare the time. But I do plan on it. Looking forward to it.
Slavery is fine - as long as they're lovin' slave drivers.  :D
Thanks again and I'll see ya'll next month.

Offline vwherb

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more grease and hello

« Reply #4 on: October 23, 2004, 09:08:14 AM »
Hi Candace, As for parts vendors, several are available. Locally we have Tri-State Imports in Cleveland, TN. O'Reilly's Auto Parts is carrying a wide variety of parts for Volkswagens but I think what you're looking for will have to be ordered from one of the mail order vendors.

I would start with Bug Stuff. Call Jack @ 1-800-752-2847. Next I would try West Coast Metric (they are on the web but I can't lay my hands on their catalog right now) then there is Mid America Motorworks @ 1-800-500-1500 or www.mamotorworks.com.

Pick up a copy of Hot Vws Magazine (my preferred VW magazine) and there are numerous vendors listed there. Did you notice I didn't mention the one parts vendor you listed? Read between the lines. :lol:

Membership will give you privledges at some parts vendors. Keep this in mind and check us out. :thumbs-up: You'll be glad you did!

Candace

parts

« Reply #5 on: October 23, 2004, 01:44:54 PM »
Yes, I noticed.
 :wink:
Thanks for the info.

Offline Zen

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more grease and hello

« Reply #6 on: October 23, 2004, 03:10:02 PM »
I know I'll probably be put before a firing squad for saying this, but Whitney's isn't all bad.  They do have some good quality stuff at very competitive prices.  You just have to be real careful when you're buying from them.  Sometimes you don't know if you're getting a great price on a high quality product or paying a premium price for junk.  Most places either sell quality parts and that is reflected in their somewhat high prices, or they sell the cheapest quality parts out there at rock bottom prices.  Whitney's does both.  If you're really careful and only buy parts that state the brand name, you can from time to time get some real bargins.

Candace

parts/membership

« Reply #7 on: October 24, 2004, 01:16:52 AM »
I'll keep that in mind about JCW. I thank you. No way I'd know that otherwise. But I will be checking out the website VWHerb suggested. I can't at this time give VW advice, but I can suggest to always use Tide laundry detergent. It's just one of those things - generic just doesn't cut the mustard.  :lol:
By the way, what is the membership price? Do I just bring moolah to the next meeting?
I'm looking forward to it.

Offline Russ

more grease and hello

« Reply #8 on: October 24, 2004, 01:24:23 AM »
It's $10/yr for an individual, and $15/yr for a family membership. Yes, you can bring cash or check with you to the meeting, or pay via PayPal here: http://www.volksfolks.org/membership.php

Offline Anthony

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more grease and hello

« Reply #9 on: October 24, 2004, 11:47:37 AM »
For Westfalia parts, you can check out GoWesty.com for interior and camper-specific parts.  They carry the knobs, sink pumps, stickers, and a lot of cool accessories.  They aren't the cheapest (well, actually, I haven't seen anywhere cheaper, they just aren't cheap), but it's good stuff!  What color and interior package do you have (sink, stove, etc?)

Candace

interior/misc.

« Reply #10 on: October 24, 2004, 01:31:14 PM »
My bus is green. I saw one almost identical on the gallery pics of Birmingham. Except mine has a good bit more rust than that one.  :cry:
When I bought it, it had the full setup of original sink/propane/cabinet behind the drivers seat. HOWEVER, (I may catch major flack over this), I took the cabinet out. It is really heavy and I never use it. I wanted more space so I can add another seat back there, plus when I go camping, I use the campfire to cook and water jugs to wash.
I have all sorts of ideas about customizing the interior, but I don't know how feasible it is. The next steps on the inside are replacing the carpet, and plugging the hole where the sink pipe went through the floor, taking off the propane setup, putting up a new side wood panel where the cabinet was, and replacing the louver window knobs. And taking care of rust. They both broke off. The upholstery is the green/orange plaid in great condition.
I went to that site and found pretty much everything I need, so that's cool.
Obviously I'm not trying to get back to original. I figure I want it the way I want it and I don't ever plan to sell it, so why not customize?
A few ideas I'm considering:
Adding some sort of heat.  :D I have young, innocent children whom I'd rather not freeze to death.
Add a simple sound system. It has a cassette/radio but it only works when it's in the mood. I am conducting a major research project to figure out a pattern for its 'mood'. I have yet to discover one. I have discovered it has nothing to do with how I turn the knobs, jiggle the wiring, or even if the antenna is up. (It falls over every time I get on the freeway)
And here's a biggie: Would it be possible to change the sliding side door to the double, hinged doors? I imagine it's possible, depending on how much cash I want to spend, but I haven't really researched this idea much so I really don't know how feasible it is.
And of course, I gotta do something about the rust ASAP. I bought a 60-grit sander bit to go on my drill, and I sanded two spots - about the size of a quarter. I wanted to see for one, if it would work, and two, exactly how fast does rust happen. I found out rust happens very fast! I did that about a week ago and both spots are already rusted again. I also found out that it would take FOREVER to do the job with my drill, and who knows how many bits I'd have to buy. BUT, it may be worth it, depending on how much it would cost to take it to a shop. I'm just afraid a shop won't be thorough. I'd like to get the rust myself, seal it, pack the big spots, if need be, and then take it to a shop for a paint job.
It's going to be a major project, and frankly I don't know where to start, and what tools/materials I need to have on hand before I start. Plus, I drive this van daily. I will have to plan for alternate transportation.
Any advice on this rust subject?
Also any input about the doors?
And what are heat options?
Sorry this got so long.

Offline Zen

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more grease and hello

« Reply #11 on: October 24, 2004, 02:08:38 PM »
What are doing with the stuff (cabnets/sink/stove/etc.) that you pull out of it?  Don't throw them away . . . they do have value.  You can list them in our classified section and on http://www.thesamba.com for free.  e(vil)Bay is a good place to sell stuff like that too . . . but you gotta pay to list there.  Sometimes you don't get any bids, sometimes you end up having to sell for your opening bid price, but IF you catch two or three folks wanting what your selling there's no telling what it might bring.

Rust is tough.  You have to get rid of it by sanding, grinding . . . whatever it takes.  Sometimes you have to go as far as cutting out the entire area and welding in un-rusted metal.  If you sand or grind down to good metal you can seal it and paint over it.  There are several rust sealing products out there . . . POR-15 is one of the most popular.  I've never used it, but everyone I've talked to that has says it fantastic.  It's sort'a like paint, but it chemically bonds to rusty metal and won't ever chip, peel, or flake off.  You can paint over it too.  If it's exposed to sunlight, you have to paint over it.  You can check out all their products at http://www.por15.com.

I "think" that the cargo door opening on a split window bus and bay window are the same size.  I've got one of each sitting in the driveway.  If I can find a tape measure, I'll find out for sure.  If they are the same, it shouldn't be too hard to install a set of split window hinged doors in the bay windows sliding door opening.  It will require some cutting, welding and metal fabrication, but I would think it would be fairly simple . . . I don't do metalwork, so I could be VERY wrong on that.  Just looks like it would be fairly simple to me.  If I can find their web site, I think there is a company in England that makes fiberglass hinged doors for a bay window bus.

For heat, a small portable propane heater is hard to beat.

Offline Zen

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more grease and hello

« Reply #12 on: October 24, 2004, 02:26:03 PM »
I found the address for the place in England but they aren't there anymore.  The place was called Bay-Splits.  They made fiberglass conversion kits to make a Bay window bus look (somewhat) like a split window.

They were at http://www.baysplits.com but they are no longer there.

Candace

more grease and hello

« Reply #13 on: October 24, 2004, 02:42:54 PM »
The small, portable propane heater you mentioned: Is that something I might could rig up to the existing propane tank or is what you're talking about have a built-in tank?
Oh, yes, I'm saving the cabinet. Thanks for the sales idea. I'll do that.
With the POR-15, I would still have to sand off the rust, right? I can't imagine just globbing it on over the bubbles of paint/rust. I suppose the advantage of that stuff is that I wouldn't have to get every little speck of rust off - just get the big hunks, enough so that it's smooth enough for paint. You agree? And yes, there are two sections that will have to be cut out, one on the back next to the engine compartment and one on the side toward the rear. Both are about ... half the size of a paperback book. It's rusted all the way through, and pretty knarly looking. I haven't started hacking on it yet.
The doors: Thanks for checking on the Brit folks. I imagine I'll just find a salvage pair. I thought they might be at least close to the same size.  That project will be interesting to say the least.

Offline Zen

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more grease and hello

« Reply #14 on: October 24, 2004, 04:32:39 PM »
The split cargo doors are the same width (both of them together) as the sliding door on a bay BUT they are shorter.   Because of the way the sliding door track runs and the lack of metal under the doors on my split window, I can't really say if there is really a differance at the bottom, but you would have to make the tops of the doors about an inch taller to make the belt line ridge line up correctly.  Or, I guess you could add about and inch of metal below the rain gutter instead of trying to modifiy the doors.  They would still be almost and inch shorter at the bottom but that should be pretty easy to deal with.  It might be as simple as grafting in one of the rocker/floor edge sections they sell for restoring this commonly rusted out section of a splitty.  But even then, I'm not 100% sure how the profile of the split doors would line up with the bay body.

I'm sure it can be done, but it'll take a lot more creative metalwork than I initially thought.  The best way to tell what needs to be done would be take off the sliding door and hold up a set hinged doors and see what needs to be done to make them fit.

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