Well I'll take a stab at it..   For the shaking under load conditions(anytime other than decel/clutch in) usually is axle related, specifically inner axle joints.  These may be loose or worn out, the bolts sometimes back out or break off, just a good starting point.  As far as the idle goes, what are the numbers on the side of the carb.?  It will say something under or over the SOLEX, may be 34 pic3. If the idle screw you turned in all the way is the small screw on the the throttle linkage near the top of the carb, you should turn it back out, when the throttle plate is opened too much it kills the idle circuit.  There is probably two screws on the side of the carb(drivers side)one large and one small.  The large one is for idle speed adjustment and the small is for air fuel mixture.  Before adjustments on the carb are made you should make sure there is no vacuum leaks,no problem with the points,cap,rotor,wires,plugs or timing.  Check the intake manifold to engine nuts,rubber intake boots(if it's a D.P.) and the carb to intake nuts, these all like to loosen up and leak.  That's a starting point, I'm sure others will chime in with some more ideas too.

Well I'll take a stab at it..   For the shaking under load conditions(anytime other than decel/clutch in) usually is axle related, specifically inner axle joints.  These may be loose or worn out, the bolts sometimes back out or break off, just a good starting point.  As far as the idle goes, what are the numbers on the side of the carb.?  It will say something under or over the SOLEX, may be 34 pic3. If the idle screw you turned in all the way is the small screw on the the throttle linkage near the top of the carb, you should turn it back out, when the throttle plate is opened too much it kills the idle circuit.  There is probably two screws on the side of the carb(drivers side)one large and one small.  The large one is for idle speed adjustment and the small is for air fuel mixture.  Before adjustments on the carb are made you should make sure there is no vacuum leaks,no problem with the points,cap,rotor,wires,plugs or timing.  Check the intake manifold to engine nuts,rubber intake boots(if it's a D.P.) and the carb to intake nuts, these all like to loosen up and leak.  That's a starting point, I'm sure others will chime in with some more ideas too.

Good start. Don't forget about the little brass jet sticking out under the choke. They can get a little piece of trash stuck in it and it won't idle no matter what other things you find. Sometimes there are 2 jets next to each other ,one about a 45 degrees to the other one . You can take them out and blow them out and put them back in the same place. Snug them down. There is no adjustment you can do here.

P.M. sent

So I found the idle and air/fuel mixture screws. Ths idle screw (the big one) was turned nearly all the way in. I've adjusted it and still haven't found the right position to makd it idle. At least I have something to tinker on now. Lol

Whoops ! I forgot to tell you about this . Does you carb have a electric fuel Shut Off valve right below the big idle screw ? If so turn the switch on and pull the wire off and on a few times and listen for a "clicking" sound. If no noise that thing could be bad and it wouldn't even think idling .

the fuel shut off valve is still getting power. so now its just a matter of finding "that spot" with those two screws. I havent messed with the air/fuel mixture screw yet, and dont plan to unless i have to.

It will always get power as long as the switch is on. Did you hear it "click" when you pulled the wire off and on ?  You WILL be messing with the mixture screw.

yea, i did hear a click. if i held the connector close enough to the post it would spark. that counts as a click, right? Sorry, im not so mechanically inclined, but im learning. lol

You would hear a "click"  .Sparks don't count as "click".