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Topic: lowering question.  (Read 8055 times)

Offline Roadkill

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lowering question.

« on: February 13, 2011, 08:04:56 PM »
Was just checking to see if any one had a good idea of what it would take to lower my 1972superbettle. Now this is just a question. I was talking to a possible new addition to the volksfolks club that saw it in the parking lot where I worked and stopped to ask me about it. I know that there is no front beam on the superbeetle so I was curious. I would only want about 3 or so in the front and the rear to give it a little more aggressive stance. I may not even do this so the godfather can relax.

Offline Zen

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Re: lowering question.

« Reply #1 on: February 13, 2011, 08:09:45 PM »
Adjust-a-struts.  The bottom plate on the strut tower is adjustable.  ASBug just lowered his Jap Beetle . . . I'm sure he can tell you more.

Offline drobe88

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Re: lowering question.

« Reply #2 on: February 13, 2011, 08:48:45 PM »
do it, do it, do it!!!!!  ;D topline sells a whole kit supose to be best on market?

Offline Roadkill

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Re: lowering question.

« Reply #3 on: February 14, 2011, 11:07:16 AM »
Have looked at the topline kits and they cost a way bunch more money than i wanted to spend. Also after talking to ASBug he has a grand or so in his with all new urathane and disk brakes etc. Mine has all new urathane and i do not need disk brakes. Will probably go with the adjust - a - shocks like Zen said. Have found them at midamerica etc but does places like autozone or pepboys carry them for beetles around here ? I checked their websights and found nothing. So can i just put on 4 adjust- a - shocks and lower it with out replacing all this other stuff.

Offline Zen

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Re: lowering question.

« Reply #4 on: February 14, 2011, 07:16:56 PM »
You just need the adjust-a-struts to lower the front.  You have to get 'em from Top Line, Mid-America, CIP1.com or some other VW specific parts place.  You won't find 'em at AutoZone or other FLAPS (friendly local auto parts store).  Top line has the best, but I haven't heard of any major problems with the cheaper ones.

You lower the back by "indexing" the rear torsion bars.  It's a good bit of work, but it doesn't cost anything but time and effort.

Offline Roadkill

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Re: lowering question.

« Reply #5 on: February 14, 2011, 11:26:25 PM »
thanks for the info Zen. Do i need any specialized tools for this ? I have done shocks on american cars in the past but never on a beetle. I may just have to buy ya lunch etc Zen and have ya come over and help when the time comes. .....  ;D

Offline Zen

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Re: lowering question.

« Reply #6 on: February 15, 2011, 09:54:56 PM »
You have to pull the strut assembly off the car.  The strut cartridge is the "shock" and is inside the coil spring.  You take the strut assembly off the car, then you have to use a good spring compressor (not one of those cheezie threaded rods with two hooks you get at the flea market) to pull the coil spring down and relieve the pressure so you can take the big nut off the top of the strut and remove the strut mount and bearing and the coil spring.  Then you take the cap off the lower part of the strut assembly and take the cartridge out and stick a new one in.  Repace your bump stops, dust covers and strut mounts if needed.  Assemble in reverse ourder.

The spring compressor is the critical tool . . . if you take the nut off the top of the strut mount without compressing the spring, parts will fly . . . if body parts, such as your head get in the way, they will fly too.  You MUST compress the spring using a GOOD spring compressor.

Offline ASBug

  • Varnel, Ga
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Re: lowering question.

« Reply #7 on: February 15, 2011, 10:21:54 PM »
You will need to buy Zen more than lunch to put all that on.
I have over $700 in parts in the front of Jap and I had a friend spend 2 days on the front end with the urethane, new disk brakes, oversized / lowered sway bar, the selecta strut housings,strut cartriges (lowered), new springs, change oil (I supplied), re dope the trans axle, adjust the valves.  His labor cost was $350.
He had to drill out a broken frame head bolt on the OEM swaybar holder, and other nice touches...  I think it was money well spent.

I have to date about $1300 in just the front end of the Jap beetle (New tires included...)  This doesn't include the T-backs that I already had (they were $$$)
But they fit!  It seems that alot of the SB's are running either stock or chrome mangles on their beetles.  When you come over you will be shocked how little clearance there is with any thing other than a stock wheel.

Good luck,
This is not a cheep mod on a super.  You have to pay to play, the car handles REALY well now though.
KC

Offline Roadkill

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Re: lowering question.

« Reply #8 on: February 16, 2011, 11:22:23 AM »
the pay to play part i have learned. I have also been reading about things on the samba and know it will take a lot of work. Like i said to ya in a pm i sent ya i have smaller shocks with a " Jagged " section on the bottom that looks like if turned it will lower the back down and the big shocks on the front. If these are the adjust a shocks like i have found the back can be done now if i had the tool to turn them. The front will be different. I guess i could just put the two 100 pound bags of quickcrete in the front trunk area and weight it down ! ........   ;D

Offline volksnick

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Re: lowering question.

« Reply #9 on: February 16, 2011, 11:40:31 AM »
You will have to reindex the rear spring plates. The adjustable shocks won't support the vehicle. Therefore, adjusting them down won't lower it. Its not hard to reindex them. There are even youtube videos of how to do it.

This one is a type 3, but the rear is nearly the same this is 1 of 4.


I've heard a lot of folks say they lowered a bug by weighing the front down, but you won't improve the handling by doing that!

Offline Ret.Bugtech

Re: lowering question.

« Reply #10 on: February 16, 2011, 11:59:59 AM »
Please be very careful when trying to get that stuck plate off and NOT having your arm right under the plate. "Bang"or pry it from over the top. Sometimes that plate will deside to jump off the stops and will be moving down fast enough that the only thing you will remember is paying the Doctor for putting that cast on . I have seen this happen and its not a pretty picture. Just be aware .VW made a tool for this at one time
« Last Edit: February 16, 2011, 12:02:59 PM by Ret.Bugtech »

Offline Zen

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Re: lowering question.

« Reply #11 on: February 16, 2011, 07:41:21 PM »
My wife's 75 Convertible was dragging in the rear when we first got it.  I added adjustable shocks (the kind with the coil spring wrapped around them and a 3 step adjustment.  While stock springs do not support any of the weight of the car and like Nick said, don't affect how high or low it sits, the springs on these type of adjustables DO slightly raise or lower the car.  They are usually added when the rear is dragging and someone like me doesn't know how to index the torsion rods are in my case are just too lazy.  If you want to lower the rear, the first thing I'd do is remove the adjustables and see where it REALLY sits.  Just going to a stock shock may lower it enough.  I know they raised my wife's convertible a good two inches.  I later went to stock shocks and re-indexed the torsion bars to get back to a stock stance.

Offline Roadkill

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Re: lowering question.

« Reply #12 on: February 17, 2011, 05:34:46 PM »
here are 3 pictures. One is from the side too show the side view of the current sitting hight. One is of the big black " shock " on the front and one of the smaller " shock " on the rear with i think an adjustable section on it. Hope this will give evryone a better view of what i will be going through and need to do.

Offline Zen

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Re: lowering question.

« Reply #13 on: February 17, 2011, 08:31:37 PM »
Those adjustable shocks on the rear are set at their highest setting.  I'll bet that if you take them off, the rear end will drop.  A stock rear shock does not have a spring and has no affect on the car's ride height.

On the front, you need a set of adjustable struts.  What they do is alow you to adjust the position on the strut tower that the bottom spring plate sits, which in turn adjust how high the car's body sits above the asphalt.  The stock struts have the plate welded in a set position.

Offline Roadkill

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Re: lowering question.

« Reply #14 on: February 17, 2011, 09:09:54 PM »
So do i have to take the rear adjustable shocks off or can i just adjustthem to a lower setting and it will go lower. If i do have to take them off, will i replace them with a stock beetle shock or what i need to replace them with.

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