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Topic: Leaking oil - A whole LOT of oil  (Read 12510 times)

Offline Smelly_Cat

Leaking oil - A whole LOT of oil

« Reply #15 on: November 30, 2005, 09:35:50 PM »
I paid safety clean 1200 bucks to haul off an oven at work that had Asbestos in it.  A clutch would be half that I'd bet..  SC

Offline Gobusgo

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Leaking oil - A whole LOT of oil

« Reply #16 on: December 03, 2005, 02:01:49 AM »
Ok, so going back to a question that Anthony brought up:

Quote
What causes it to blow out? High oil pressure? Oil too thick? High revs on a cold engine with thick oil?


Why would the plug blow?  Sort of like a "bum ticker" on a person?  Just old and worn out?

Another thing...at my last oil change I put in some Lucas oil treatment in there in place of 1 quart of oil.  This was back in August, but would the colder weather have contributed to this blowout in conjuction with that Lucas?  The Lucas oil treatment is super-gooey-thick.

And while I'm at it, would it make sense to remove the other plugs and tap and screw in a plug in them as well?  I don't want it to happen again.

Offline Zen

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Leaking oil - A whole LOT of oil

« Reply #17 on: December 03, 2005, 08:10:11 AM »
Back before my VW days I always added a can of STP oil treatment at oil changes.  I thought that was what contributed to getting over 100,000 miles on several GM engines I had (V8's and in-line 6's and 4's).  Come to find out, it was probably a waste of money.  I've gotten somewhere in the neighborhood of 100,000 miles on the 1600 single port that's currently in Joy's convertible, and I built it with mostly used parts.  The only thing new was the bearings, rings and gaskets.  Since it doesn't have an oil filter, I'm thinking now that changing your oil often is the major factor in extending engine life.

I don't know what Lucas will do, but I can tell you that straight 30 weight in a half worn out 1600 will create more oil pressure than the oil cooler seals can handle if you fire it up and immediately take off down the road when it's 5 degrees outside.  Been there, done that.  At 5 degrees, straight 30 weight has about the same consistency of STP . . . it doesn't flow well.  I blew out 3 quarts of oil in the 13 miles between work and home.  No, I didn't run it dry; I stopped twice and added a quart.  After the weather warmed back up, there was only a slight trickle of oil seeping from the oil cooler seals.  I don't know how high the pressure got, but if it had not of blown it by the seals, I'd bet it would have busted the cooler open.  My thinking used to be (back in my "Drive a GM product or walk days) that the higher the oil pressure, the better the lubrication.  This is not true.  As long as the oil has enough film strength to stick together and create a film of oil between the moving parts of the engine, the better it flows, the better the lubrication.  Thinner oil flows better than thicker oil.  Hot oil flows better than cold oil.  Cold, thick oil will give you better oil pressure, but it won't necessarily lubricate better.

Offline Anthony

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Leaking oil - A whole LOT of oil

« Reply #18 on: December 03, 2005, 10:07:53 AM »
I agree, Zen. Most of these "treatments" are just "oil thickeners" used to compensate for worn-out parts and leaky seals.

If you're going to use 30-weight this winter, how'd you like to buy my electric oil heater? I bought it NOS and used it with my Mexican Beetle a couple of winters. It's in great shape and does the job, $20? You won't have to worry about blowing out any seals since your oil will already be hot.

Offline Ret.Bugtech

Leaking oil - A whole LOT of oil

« Reply #19 on: December 07, 2005, 09:54:44 AM »
I just caught up with this.  
   Why the galley plug blew out ?  VW told us it was the plugs fault. They were made a little to small. Thats the reason I said do not put a new plug back in. You might get the old version and have the same thing happen again.
    Blowing cooler seals ?  Several reasons. Some of the after-market gasket sets had really rotten rubber products. The cooler seals would get hard as a rock after a few thousand miles. They would either shrink up and close the cooler off or crack and start leaking. We use to order factory seals and only use factory seals. No more problems.
    If the owner read his owners manual , you would see that you were suppose to use a lighter grade oil in really cold weather and if it was a 6V car + 30w oil, You were parked until spring unless you built a fire under it or took the poor thing in the house with you. Even with all that said , you shouldn't have blown cooler seals.
    If I remember correctly, There is a little thing on the bottom of the case called a pressure relief valve. This little dude not only control'd the pressure ,but limited the amount of oil that pass through the cooler until the engine warmed up. So why would it blow cooler seals unless they were bad to begin with or the cooler itself was loose on the case or vibrated itselve apart or even YOU put the wrong seals on.(seen that happen).
   We have talked about what kind of oil to use before. VW said to use 30w in the summer, 20w in the winter. Why !!    Economy. Single grade oil were cheaper than Muti-Grade oils at that time and that was the only reason. Heck ! I did it until I learned better.
    The bottom line here is :   Good seals, Good Cooler, A pressure Relief valve that works and on the count of 3,  1-2-3-  20w50. Slam the lid and Happy Motoring !!!!!!!!
     Remember ,Its your coal truck. You can put a pile of crap in it or the proper stuff and enjoy yourselve. Your choice. \:D/

Offline Ret.Bugtech

Leaking oil - A whole LOT of oil

« Reply #20 on: December 07, 2005, 10:07:35 AM »
Travis, I wouldn't worry about the other galley plugs. I have never heard of or saw any of the other galley plugs having a problems.

Offline Ret.Bugtech

Leaking oil - A whole LOT of oil

« Reply #21 on: December 07, 2005, 10:55:47 AM »
Heck Fire !!!   As long as I am on my soap box this morning :
               I HATE TO CHANGE OIL WITH A PASSION
        So why would I carry a 7 day weather forecast around with me to determind what grade oil I'm suppose to use today. 30w or 20w ?
Good Gosh !  Its going to be 75 degrees today and 15 degrees in the morning.  Remember ,We live in good ole' Chattanooga. Perfect weather, perfect non-corupt politics, perfect non-corupt police. I think I will use 20w-50w and forget about all of this. :lol:  :lol:

Offline Gobusgo

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Leaking oil - A whole LOT of oil

« Reply #22 on: December 07, 2005, 11:43:06 AM »
I found this website where this guy went through his '78 Westy and cataloged just about every part, wire, cable, screw, procedure, etc.  In fact, I posted this link to the website.  In the matter of the oil galley plugs, he had taken JB weld and covered them up.  What think ye on this bit of info?

I would hope the JB weld would stick and not fall off to be knocked around in the clutch/flywheel/bell housing area.

Offline Ret.Bugtech

Leaking oil - A whole LOT of oil

« Reply #23 on: December 07, 2005, 12:26:45 PM »
I guess you could do that although I had one of the lower rt.(like yours) come out that had JB-Weld on it. It was a mess trying to get the left-overs out of the galley. We were concerned about chunks of JB-Weld getting up in the galley where we couldn't get to them. Of course his plug had come out before and was re-used. I don't think you could smear enough Weld on the outside to make that much difference. Like I said before, I haven't seen a problem with the other galley plugs. As far as having chunks of JB-Weld getting to the clutch,I think the clutch or the flywheel would spit them out. This is something to think about though. Back when VW used the old coil spring pressure plates, they came with 3  small clips under the 3 levers to pre-load the plate to help install. You were supposed to flip these clips out after you tighten all the bolts up. If you forgot to do this, they slung out after you started the engine and mashed the clutch in the first time. Guess where they always ended up. They were hung up in the starter housing locking up the starter.(Don't ask me how I know that :lol: ) . I don't know if JB-Weld would have the stuff to lock up the starter if it ended up there. I would just fix the one  and not worry about the others. Its your call.

Offline Gobusgo

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Leaking oil - A whole LOT of oil

« Reply #24 on: December 21, 2005, 06:05:25 PM »
I took the engine over to Apison Mechanics and Kenneth Oliver tapped the end of the oil galley with a 5/8 fine thread tap.  That's good, because I had already bought a 5/8 fine thread set screw (only $1.65, so if it didn't work, no big loss).  The set screw sticks out a little, but not past where the flywheel would hit it.  
What should I do when I put the screw in there? Use some high-temp silicone on the threads?  
Tighten it down til it stops?  Or use a specific torque?  
Does it matter if the set screw sticks out a little (not enough out to hit the flywheel) or should I try to find a shorter set screw?

He also ground the flanges of my exhaust manifolds to hopefully eradicate the exhaust leak at the manifold/elbow to heater box connection.

His shop charge is $50 per hour, but to do both of these jobs for me only cost me $30.  He is a one-man operation and I hear that he is highly critical of his own work.

David:  If you don't do the valve seats for the heads, who would you suggest to do it?  I think that one of the exhaust valve seats is "chipped" and I would like to fix that.  (I think I know what I am saying here...are the seats "ceramic"?  They look like it...if I am looking at the right thing)  And should I get all new valves (exhaust and intake) or just exhaust?

Offline Gobusgo

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Leaking oil - A whole LOT of oil

« Reply #25 on: December 22, 2005, 02:45:39 AM »
...and David, I should have asked about valve guides, not valve seats.  I didn't know what I was talking about.

Offline Ret.Bugtech

Leaking oil - A whole LOT of oil

« Reply #26 on: December 22, 2005, 08:49:51 AM »
Travis, You couldn't have picked a better man for your galley repair. I have know Kenny for a very long time. He is one heck of a machinist and a good friend. No. 1 in my book.
    You can screw the set screw in as far as you want as long as it doesn't block the galley in any way. I would use Loc-Tite on the threads. They have a formula for just threads, but any Loc-tite will work. If you have any room left on the case after you install the set screw, You can "Stake" it in a few places to help lock it. RTV doesn't "set up" so I wouldn't use on the galley plug.
    When I said that I don't do valve seats, I meant that I don't replace them. I can re-surface them.
    I'm not sure of what you are talking about with the "chip"thing. Sometimes a guide will have a little nick at the top of the guide inside the ex/in ports . Depending on how big it is you may not have to replace it if it is still OK as far as wear goes. I could look at it and see.  
   No. You don't have ceramic seats. Most of the time you can just replace Ex.valves and keep your intakes,but if you are concerned about them you can replace the intakes. Your call. :-k

Offline Gobusgo

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Leaking oil - A whole LOT of oil

« Reply #27 on: December 22, 2005, 10:09:02 AM »
Quote
Sometimes a guide will have a little nick at the top of the guide inside the ex/in ports


Yeah, that's what I meant.  I was talking about that when I said that I should have been using the word "guide" instead of "seat".  So wherever in my previous post I said "seat", it should have been "guide".

Yes, there is a nick in it and it looks like old, burnt ceramic...I swear it does!

Offline Ret.Bugtech

Leaking oil - A whole LOT of oil

« Reply #28 on: December 22, 2005, 01:00:47 PM »
Tain't  ceramic.  More than likely Silicon/ Bronze. Funkyness does not constitute badness.  Even a ugly Lentil Loaf can taste good. What do you think?

Offline Gobusgo

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Leaking oil - A whole LOT of oil

« Reply #29 on: December 22, 2005, 02:22:23 PM »
Sure.  But maybe its more like a pretty lentil loaf can taste bad. :D

Ok, so its not ceramic.

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