head tempature?

swagginjello · « **Reply #15 on:** January 03, 2008, 08:12:17 PM »

looks like i got something to do one saturday. dont have a timing light yet, but i have a air ratchet that i got for x-mas that i can take and swap even for the light, listed as same price on sears' website. i wanted a smaller air ratchet anyways. The dist. should be fine it was replace back in April, although its still flaky. figureing out the rpms will probly be a little chalange, but im sure i can do by ear well enough.

« **Reply #16 on:** January 03, 2008, 10:13:20 PM »

Do it by ear and you will smoke your motor. Very simple to set it. The one wire with the clamp goes on cly#1 wire which is on the passenger side of the car torward the front. The red clip can go on the large terminal on the gen/alt, the black goes to ground. Do like David says and measure 2" from the dimple with the white mark, to the right. Mark that spot with a bright color paint(yellow, orange, red) or nail polish. Start engine and pull trigger, point at the pulley. Rev up the engine and you should see that mark move. Rev it up until the mark stops moving(appr. 2000rpm) and with the engine at that speed, adjust the distributor until the mark is on the split(center) of the crankcase. Tighten down the distributor there. Leave it there. If it doesn't run right then. Its either a carb adjustment, valve adjustment, or a loose nut behind the wheel. Note: make sure the points are set properly before adjusting timing. Valves should also be adjusted before hand too!
I hope this helps.

swagginjello · « **Reply #17 on:** January 03, 2008, 10:28:20 PM »

took back my air ratchet, and got the timing light with the advance dial. although it took a little flirting with the cashier to get it done as an even swap. :lol: ill give this a try saturday. i think i have some green nail polish i can use around here somewhere.

Ret.Bugtech · « **Reply #18 on:** January 04, 2008, 12:00:09 PM »

Remember this, Now that you have the light with the advance knob, forget about doing the 2" thing. Just hook up the light and set the knob on 32 degrees and then bring the "0" mark to the center line(split) in the case ( about 1800-2000 RPM.)
I'm glad that Gehackt (Joe) mention checking the point gap/ valve lash. Do that first just to be sure. I can't remember everything :lol:

swagginjello · « **Reply #19 on:** January 04, 2008, 05:52:50 PM »

alright i came home and put the light to it, didnt think i had time to mess with the valves before dark, and didnt change anything on the Dist yet. this is what i found at idle the dimple was right on the mark, or bouncing around it closly enough, and when i reved it would only come about half way over untill it stoped moving(knob @ 0 advance) changed the advance knob to around 15ish, and it was about right... does that mean i need to check my points. i've been round and round with the carb, but havnt messed much with the dist. ill have to consult the books for that one. looks like sunday will be Van day instead of disc golf day like normal. i am asuming the the marks will stop moving once it hits full advance on the dist. corect me if im wrong. im still green, but i atleast got a decent graps or so i belive...

letsbuggy · « **Reply #20 on:** January 05, 2008, 06:51:07 AM »

set knob to 32 then rev t 1800 2000 where it at

« **Reply #21 on:** January 05, 2008, 10:57:32 AM »

Stop right there, If your points aren't set right, your wasting your time.
1. Set your points at .016
2. Set the knob to 32 degrees.
3. Start engine check timing.
Note: from idle to 2000rpm the timing mark will move 2"s
4. While revving and holding the engine speed at or above 2000rpm and the knob on 32degrees align the timing so the dimple with the white smudge is at the split in the case! There is NO better way to time your engine.
NOTE: Valves can only be adjusted when the engine is Cold! Adjust to .006
If you don't know how to adjust the valves, get a manual or someone that knows how.

Ret.Bugtech · « **Reply #22 on:** January 05, 2008, 11:19:06 AM »

Swag, You are not paying attention. SET THE ADVANCE KNOB ON 32 DEGREES, THEN bring your RPMs up and see where the "0" mark ends up. If it is not right on , move the dist. until it is. Don't worry about how many degrees the engine idles at as long as it doesn't idle at 20 degrees or something. More than likey its going to idle at about 5-7 degrees advanced and not "0". DON'T WORRY ABOUT THAT !! NORMAL
This is not a complicated thing to do. POINTS SET AT .016
Don't worry about your carb until you get the timing right. You are using a 009 centrifical dist right ? Is your carb a 34pict ? Look on the left side of the carb. bowl and get the #s. 34mm carbs and 009 dist do not like each other, hesitation , lags ,but can be delt with . With no vacumn line from the carb to the 009 dist, you still will be able to set the timing. The dist is not depending on the carb vacumn to advance the timing. The dist doesn't care as long as you are able to get the RPMS up to 1800-2000 , even if you are using a garden hose for a carb. :lol:

swagginjello · « **Reply #23 on:** January 06, 2008, 03:37:24 PM »

alright i found time to do a little work on the van. first thing i tried to do is check, and adjust the points on the dist. well... i found this.

looks like i need to replace that... a nipple on one side, and a hole in the other.

moved on to the valves, no problems there, they were all close, but i made some small adjustments since i was there. seemed like there was a bit to much oil in the 1,and 2 cylinder head side, probly need a valve, job soon.

i figure i best order some new points, and might aswell pick up some new spark plugs.

Ret.Bugtech · « **Reply #24 on:** January 06, 2008, 04:37:08 PM »

Bosch points/ cond. W-8 Bosch plugs ONLY. Joe ,there in Cleveland should be able to take of that for you. Don't forget to put some lube on the rubbing block of the points.

swagginjello · « **Reply #25 on:** January 08, 2008, 06:30:55 PM »

alright points are set, and man it was a pain to get right. also replaced the cap and rotor. set the timing, and went on a test drive. had to make a few carb adjustments, but mostly everything smothed right along. didnt get it up over 50 yet, but it stayed under 350 the whole time. still need to seal it up better, but i have seen an improvement thus far. thanks for all the help! :thumbs-up:

« **Reply #26 on:** January 08, 2008, 08:39:32 PM »

If you are using a 34pict3 with a 009 dizzy check this out, This will make them more compatable.
http://www.aircooledtech.com/34pict3_modification/

Ret.Bugtech · « **Reply #27 on:** January 09, 2008, 09:40:37 AM »

Careful Joe, We don't need to give Swag to much info just yet. One thing at a time so it will be "Burned " in good. He will be OK when we get him headed right . He is getting braver. :lol: :lol:

swagginjello · « **Reply #28 on:** January 11, 2008, 06:25:51 PM »

dont have a 34 on it any more... it was worn out, and leaked out the butterfly valve... so no i have a 31 with an adapter plate i belive. mand was it easy to set.

« **Reply #29 on:** January 11, 2008, 11:01:08 PM »

Quote from: "swagginjello"

dont have a 34 on it any more... it was worn out, and leaked out the butterfly valve... so no i have a 31 with an adapter plate i belive. mand was it easy to set.

You think the 34 leaked, wiat for a year or so and the 31 will loosen up too, as I have been told by the Godfather!

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Topic: head tempature? (Read 8674 times)

swagginjello

head tempature?

Gehackt

head tempature?

swagginjello

head tempature?

Ret.Bugtech

head tempature?

swagginjello

head tempature?

letsbuggy

head tempature?

Gehackt

head tempature?

Ret.Bugtech

head tempature?

swagginjello

head tempature?

Ret.Bugtech

head tempature?

swagginjello

head tempature?

Gehackt

head tempature?

Ret.Bugtech

head tempature?

swagginjello

head tempature?

Gehackt

head tempature?

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