The rusty gland nut on the right in the pic is indeed for a T-1 auto-stick and if I remember correctly it is also for a T-3 fully automatic.  The other nut is a 4 speed only. If you have your engine out, make sure that your torque converter" stays put"  You can turn the conv. and push in at the same time to be sure its "bottom out"
  A little tip here . When you install your engine, start all your torque converter bolts loosely then tighten them up. These bolts can cross thread with ease. DON'T DROP THEM IN THE BELL HOUSING. You can't get them out without pulling the engine back out. Before I had the "real McCoy" 8mm  magnectic socket, I use body calk on a plain 8 mm socket.
 You just about could not start the bolts with your fingers. At least I couldn't and I have long fingers.  "holler back" if you get in trouble.

Hey Guy,  They are the same. Are you working on a Type-3 fully automatic or a Type-1 automatic stick shift. I think I missed something. It doesn't matter as they both use the same gland nut. Just curious.

Dang !! Its been to long.   I have call in to a friend .   I'm looking at a org. parts manuel that list the part # for the fully- auto gland nut as:
   311-105-307
 The manual 4 speed #  is 111-105-305 E   37.2 w/needle brg.
 The auto-stick shift # is 113-105-307 B
  I know this is not helping you out ,but you might pass these #s along to the Samba guy. I'm not signed up with them.
  I do know the fully AT gland nut is thinner.    Stand By !!!