General card question.

Roadkill · « **on:** May 09, 2011, 12:30:09 PM »

I remembered that here on the tech forums that every one said that Pic 34-3 carbs were crap and they should be taken off and replaced with a pic 30/31 carb due the 34's problems with not being able to be set correctly and causing problems with the timing etc. Well after about 2 months of great driving after R&M worked their magic on it my 72 Super beetle has decided to start acting up again. I do not know if it is the carb or the other things mentioned in the forums but i am tired of it.

It starts fine and drives fine but will not stay ideling most of the time. As it is nearly my daily driver i need it to run like it should. My question finally is " Will the Pic 30/31 work on my superbeetle with or without an adapter or is the Pic 34 the only one for a super beetle as is stated in the Mid American parts catalog ". Also if i need to swap it out does anyone have an extra / older but usable one they will sell cheaper as my funds are very low at this time. Thanks for any help.

ASBug · « **Reply #1 on:** May 09, 2011, 12:44:49 PM »

OK, It is rare that I get to help out, but this is my take on it...
1) check your little clamps on the intalke boots, Black or red. Check to see if they are stripped (clamps). The cheep ones they send in the boot kit are CRAP. The ones on the ASBug stripped out and I would get intermittent vaccume leaks as every thing heated up. If they are stripped, take one to a FLAPS and get a radiator clamp and use it.
If the clamps are tight and not stripped out, then check the idle circut on the base of the carb on the right side on the bottom, it'll look lie it has a BB in it and is brass. Loosen it slightly to see if the idle gets better. If the idle improves then take it out and look at it. Is it nasty? does it have garbage on it? if so it is probbably plugged and needs the carb cleaner throught the WD40 red straw blown throught it.
If this isn't doing the trick, (My ASBug ran great with a new 34 on it for like 6 months and then started doing what your describing...) look at a new carb then...
2) What distributor are you using? if it is an 009, 010 or other non vaccume actuated one (w/o the vaccume can), the 34 has a reputation of not liking those. That is what is in my Jap Beetle now and it is a noticbly hessitant...
2) The 30/31 CAN be used on your 1600 DP (If you order the one with the adaptor.) It is a smaller bore and will give a little less speed top end, but should cause your MPG to go up. Just make sure to order the one with the adaptor.
Let us know what you find....
KC

volksnick · « **Reply #2 on:** May 09, 2011, 01:16:08 PM »

Quote from: ASBug on May 09, 2011, 12:44:49 PM

2) The 30/31 CAN be used on your 1600 DP (If you order the one with the adaptor.) It is a smaller bore and will give a little less speed top end, but should cause your MPG to go up. Just make sure to order the one with the adaptor.

We put a 30/31 with adapter on the 1600DP giveaway motor for BP13. It also had a 009 and it ran great! Kinda makes me want to put a 30/31 on my bug since I am/was having the same problems with Bonnie.

Ret.Bugtech · « **Reply #3 on:** May 09, 2011, 02:38:58 PM »

30-31 will put a smile on you face and should run with a 009. 34's on a D.P. with a 009 ,not so good. Like KC said get the 30-31 W/ adapter. On the 30-31 be sure to keep a watch on the screws/nuts-bolts. Those things like to loosen up for some reason.

Zen · « **Reply #4 on:** May 09, 2011, 02:58:01 PM »

All the 30/31 carbs I've bought new (5 or 6 of them) ran great right out of the box will little or no adustment. I've ran them on dual ports (using the adaptor) and single ports, with 009 and vacuum advance distributors . . . they seem to be alot more forgiving than the 34 PICT 3. The 34 PICT 3 is not a 'bad' carb, it just has to be matched up with the correct distributor (it's REAL picky about it's advance curve) and everything has to be set near perfect or you'll go through a lot asprin!

The big problems I've seen with the 30/31 is quality control on the assembly. You don't have to worry about any of the bolts being stripped from the factory, because most of them will be no more than finger tight. First thing I do when I take on out of the box is go over it and tighten all the bolts and the idle cut off. If you don't do that, like RetBugtech said, they WILL back themselves out. The other big problem is that usually the first time one backfires through the carb with the breather on it, it'll shoot the plug in the base out of it like a bullet. It's pressed in then has three spots peened to hold it in. If you can't find the plug when it comes out, a dime works fine. Plug the hole and cover the plug with some type of epoxy (JB Weld, etc.).

Roadkill · « **Reply #5 on:** May 10, 2011, 09:15:51 PM »

thanks for the advice and i am checking things sugested as i have time. One thing i did notice is that for some reason the " fast idle screw " was not even touching the lever like it is supposed too. I did not tighten it much but it is now touching and was staying running. Will this hurt anything or is this ok to have been done.

ASBug · « **Reply #6 on:** May 10, 2011, 09:44:40 PM »

On a 34 you adjust the fast idle screw to the notched cam with the engine running and the choke all the way open, then you OPEN IT UP 1/4 TURN AWAY FROM THE CAM, it sounds like it was adjusted as per spec, but if making it touch get's it to idle then run that puppy.
KC

Roadkill · « **Reply #7 on:** May 11, 2011, 10:53:39 AM »

yep the screw was about a 16th of an inch away while keeping it running i turned it till it touched the notched cam and it stayed running for now. I will of course check other things on the carb and eventually chainge it to a 30/31. By the way my distributor does have the vacume advance thing on the side of it. Also my intake boots are tight but showing advanced signs of dry rot cracks, so i guess they will be replaced as well. Thats all for now.

ASBug · « **Reply #8 on:** May 11, 2011, 04:54:44 PM »

Vacuume boots that are cracked = vacuume leaks = no idle...
Houston, I think we have found our problem...
Fix the intake boots - a pain, but parts are like <$10.
Do this before the ~$200 carb.
KC

Roadkill · « **Reply #9 on:** May 26, 2011, 11:35:27 AM »

ok i spent yesterday getting a few parts for the bug to make it run better. I got the intake boots that KC talked about and a carb rebuild kit. Well i got the 34 - 3 carb off and started the rebuild. Well i got it pulled apart and everything cleaned. I noticed that the only things in the rebuild kit were a few gaskets that i could use. The other stuff did not go with my carb so extra parts left over. Put it back together and hooked it all back up. Turned the key and after a few pumps of the peddle it started better than ever and stayed running. I also noticed that the choke was completely open so it reset that to where it needed to be. Have not done the intake boots yet but will on my next off day. Pleased with myself on this ! I will keep an eye open and an ear ready for any other tweeking it may need now.

Smelly_Cat · « **Reply #10 on:** May 31, 2011, 06:52:52 PM »

One thing to check is that the intake manifold bolts are tight. Its like the rubber boots

Roadkill · « **Reply #11 on:** June 01, 2011, 05:13:30 PM »

Thankjs SC i will check them also when i do the intake boots.

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Topic: General card question. (Read 5358 times)

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