Engine smokes after head replacement

« **on:** September 12, 2005, 12:50:48 PM »

Okay, my '69 Beetle has a 1600 dual port engine. It was smoking when decelerating in gear. Burnt valves, right? (At least, that's what everyone I asked suggested) It did NOT smoke when idling, accelerating, or decelerating OUT of gear. I replaced both heads (new). Now, when I start the car it smokes. The longer it sits at idle, the more it smokes. Drive it around, and you'd think that landing craft were approaching the coast of France behind it. (i.e, it smokes a LOT)
I've only driven it around the block (about a half mile) because I am none to happy with this situation.
It also smokes (a little bit) around the oil-filler, and through the crankcase breather.
Am I looking at rings/pistons here? Is there another explanation? Not that it's important, but how could this happen from just sitting there? Did I screw something up?

As an aside, The crankcase breather is one on the ones that mounts on the firewall made by Bugpack. I have no idea how this thing is supposed to work, as it was on the car when I bought it. All it has done so far is leak oil. What's the deal with this thing? If it were improperly installed I would have no idea! Can someone run through that bit for me?

Thanks in advance!
Dave

Ret.Bugtech · « **Reply #1 on:** September 12, 2005, 06:27:41 PM »

Hey Guy, My first guess is that you have a ring problem or burned piston . Remove your oil filler cap at idle and rev the engine a little and see how much oil smoke rolls out. The engine should be running a little lame,
sort of like a detectible miss if you have a burned piston. It is unsual for a bug engine to smoke unless the rings are worn slap out , burned piston, crankcase breather stopped up, overfilling oil. The common cause for burned pistons is running the timing very high. 32 degrees max at about 1200 rpm. Wearing just the rings out looks like running without a air cleaner. Im not sure how the Bug pack breather works.
Why don`t you run a compression ck when the engine is slightly warm.
Its not a good idea to replace rings. Put a new set of pistons / clys on if this is the problem.
Do you have any history on the engine like milage . It would be a shame to replace the top end of the engine only to have the rod/main bearings ready to depart.
Keep me posted to what you find.
D.J.

« **Reply #2 on:** September 14, 2005, 02:37:01 PM »

Ok, Now I am mystified. It ISN'T smoking out of the tail pipe anymore. There si SOME smoke from the oil filler, but I put that down to the weird Bugpack breather thing not being attached to the air cleaner in any way. (I could be wrong). It doesn't have so much pressure at the filler that it wants to blow the cap off or anything.

I was warming it up to test compression and it stalled on me. Now it won't start! When it turns over, it backfires, but doesn't start. It was running fine. What gives?

Ret.Bugtech · « **Reply #3 on:** September 15, 2005, 08:21:45 AM »

Well ! You being there, Me being here , Hard to say "Whot Happn"
We assume you haven`t run out of fuel.
Your dist. didn`t jump out of the case did it ? You can take the cap off and see if you can turn the rotor button by hand. If things are ok there , I don`t know what to tell you other than go back to basics and re-check everything like fuel, points, cond, wiring. If you have one of those eletronic Ing. mods, you may want to look at it really close. They have a nasty habit of conking out on you with no warning. Let me know what you find. :?

71SuperBee · « **Reply #4 on:** September 17, 2005, 12:44:00 PM »

Cracked Head,

David is right on the bottom end condition. I rebuilt my 1600dp and let david do the main, rod and cam bearings and luckily I did because one of the main halfed bearings was worn really bad but it didn't look like the rods or anything was worn out. Weird I know but putting more pressure on the bottom end will cause bearings to wear even faster "in my opinion" So if you do that please let someone who knows what they are doing rebuild the bottom end atleast. And did you torque the heads down to spec? I know the long case studs torque to 25lbs, "I think 15 for the short ones??" Not sure though. And if you pulled the heads you really need to go ahead and buy new push rod tubes and seals. It will save you a headache once you put that all together and find out that they are leaking bad. Just to let you know BUGTECH is a damn good mechanic.....

Hey DAvid, what can I do to my bug if I decide to step it up a bit in power? Can you install a mild performance cam? What are my options? And is there a way to gear the tranny so it doesn't sound like it is about to blow at higher speeds???"IE 80MPH? LOL David the bug is getting painted. I don't think that you ever saw it other than the engine. LOL... I have been keeping it in top shape...

Aaron :lol: :lol: :lol:

Ret.Bugtech · « **Reply #5 on:** September 17, 2005, 04:33:37 PM »

Aaron, Look at this way. You would have to tear the engine apart to install a camshaft. You wouldn`t notice a lot of improvement in power with just a mild cam much less taking a new engine apart to do the job. Its not worth it.
As far as your tranny goes, If I remember right, you are turning about 4000 rpm at 70 mph with your present gearing. They make a tranny called a "Freeway Flyer" but in our part of the country I think you wouldn`t be happy with that high 4th gear. I think the gearing you have right now is perfect for our hills and mountains. This is my thoughts on it of course.
If you want more power, get yourself another engine to play with and save your stock engine to put back in when your "Big Bad Boy" blows up. :lol: :lol:

71SuperBee · « **Reply #6 on:** September 17, 2005, 05:14:47 PM »

Yes David,

U are right.. I think I will find me a 1600 and build it up.. And keep my stock one. That is a great ideal. Can you tell me what to buy to make it work good??

Aaron

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