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Topic: Engine Seating  (Read 3086 times)

Offline killjoy

  • Joined: Jun 2011
  • Posts: 32

Engine Seating

« on: March 07, 2012, 09:07:33 PM »
hey guys. So i have a new engine (thanks travis), and have it all cleaned up and ready to go back in the bug (72 standard). Im having a problem getting the spline coming from the transmission to line up and go into the clutch correctly. Is there any kind of tricks, tips, or hints I should know? Anyone have any thoughts?

Offline travisyoung

Re: Engine Seating

« Reply #1 on: March 07, 2012, 09:13:55 PM »
Make sure the engine is level with the transmission,  I used an old input shaft to line the clutch up so it should be straight

Offline volksnick

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Re: Engine Seating

« Reply #2 on: March 07, 2012, 11:31:55 PM »
I always seem to have this battle. I can usually get it started but then hit the splines wrong. Make sure the two bottom studs are going into the holes on the transmission and then grab the crank pulley and rotate it a little as you lift/shift/shake the crap out of it. If that doesn't work, I try to reposition the jack to adjust the levelness of the engine compared to the transmission. Its a battle, but it can be done.

My biggest problem with installing the engine is not just having to battle this... its remembering to put the throttle cable through the shroud AFTER I won the battle...  >:(

Offline killjoy

  • Joined: Jun 2011
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Re: Engine Seating

« Reply #3 on: March 08, 2012, 12:02:54 AM »
i almost got it once without the throttle cable nick, i feel your pain. I can get it about 3 inches away from being seating, and it sticks every time. ive turned that pulley a hundred times, a little bit at a time. lol. Patience is a virtue I suppose.

Offline volksnick

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Re: Engine Seating

« Reply #4 on: March 08, 2012, 01:30:08 AM »
I have found good luck with getting really angry and manhandling the engine from the preheat tubes and shake it in. Keep fiddling with it. It will go

Offline travisyoung

Re: Engine Seating

« Reply #5 on: March 08, 2012, 06:15:42 AM »
Usually when I am struggling I get someone else to come over and try and they get it In first try,  this is easier in the shop

Offline certdubtech

  • In the Garage...
  • Joined: May 2006
  • Posts: 3199

Re: Engine Seating

« Reply #6 on: March 08, 2012, 08:03:22 AM »
Put the trans in gear... sometimes as soon as a little contact made, the trans input shaft will just spin when you rotate the engine.  I always start with the back edge ever so slightly down, so the studs catch the lip of the holes in the bellhousing.  Then, as it starts to go in, lift the rear edge, and rotate the engine until they meet the splines, then slide it in.  After about 20 years of installing air-cooled engines, it actually comes pretty quickly...  ;)

One thing... Make sure the engine is fully seated before you go cranking down on the mounting nuts.  If you try to pull the cases together with the nuts, you WILL MOST LIKELY BREAK SOMETHING... the force of a turning 17mm nut can be impressive.   ;)

Offline Ret.Bugtech

Re: Engine Seating

« Reply #7 on: March 08, 2012, 09:12:00 AM »
Quote from: certdubtech on March 08, 2012, 08:03:22 AM
Put the trans in gear... sometimes as soon as a little contact made, the trans input shaft will just spin when you rotate the engine.  I always start with the back edge ever so slightly down, so the studs catch the lip of the holes in the bellhousing.  Then, as it starts to go in, lift the rear edge, and rotate the engine until they meet the splines, then slide it in.  After about 20 years of installing air-cooled engines, it actually comes pretty quickly...  ;)

One thing... Make sure the engine is fully seated before you go cranking down on the mounting nuts.  If you try to pull the cases together with the nuts, you WILL MOST LIKELY BREAK SOMETHING... the force of a turning 17mm nut can be impressive.   ;)


Rick, Maybe we need to have a  R&R engine 101 session for our New members  and our older Guys that haven't figure it out yet. They just don't know all the tricks. No rocket stuff here

Offline volksnick

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Re: Engine Seating

« Reply #8 on: March 08, 2012, 11:19:00 AM »
Quote from: Ret.Bugtech on March 08, 2012, 09:12:00 AM
Quote from: certdubtech on March 08, 2012, 08:03:22 AM
Put the trans in gear... sometimes as soon as a little contact made, the trans input shaft will just spin when you rotate the engine.  I always start with the back edge ever so slightly down, so the studs catch the lip of the holes in the bellhousing.  Then, as it starts to go in, lift the rear edge, and rotate the engine until they meet the splines, then slide it in.  After about 20 years of installing air-cooled engines, it actually comes pretty quickly...  ;)

One thing... Make sure the engine is fully seated before you go cranking down on the mounting nuts.  If you try to pull the cases together with the nuts, you WILL MOST LIKELY BREAK SOMETHING... the force of a turning 17mm nut can be impressive.   ;)


Rick, Maybe we need to have a  R&R engine 101 session for our New members  and our older Guys that haven't figure it out yet. They just don't know all the tricks. No rocket stuff here


I'd rather struggle! ;D

Offline certdubtech

  • In the Garage...
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Re: Engine Seating

« Reply #9 on: March 08, 2012, 11:34:34 AM »
^^^ Hard-headed....  :P

 ;D ;D

One thing to make sure of... that your pressure plate is the right one to go with the trans.  Clutch splines are the same, so that's not a prob., but if you try to put an earlier style pressure plate (they have a center ring on them for the earlier style release bearing) into a later trans (that would have a thin metal sleeve over the input shaft that the later style bearing guides on) I don't think it will not go in.... Just thinking.  You have a '72, which would use that style trans.  Just an idea...

Offline travisyoung

Re: Engine Seating

« Reply #10 on: March 08, 2012, 01:16:33 PM »
The clutch came out of a 67 beetle,  pretty sure

Offline Ret.Bugtech

Re: Engine Seating

« Reply #11 on: March 08, 2012, 01:46:28 PM »
Quote from: travisyoung on March 08, 2012, 01:16:33 PM
The clutch came out of a 67 beetle,  pretty sure
Rick and I were talking about this this morning.  If the pressure plate was a tru 67 plate with the center ring and the trans. is a tru 72 with the sleeve over the shaft, THIS WILL NOT WORK period. No! you can not take the sleeve off . The throw out brg is no kin to the older model. A trick you can do if you have a diaphragm pressure plate with the ring and NOT a plate with 3 arms, you can take a ball peen hammer and knock the ring off the plate from the inside. You have to hit pretty hard.  You will bend up the 2inch washer but who cares . You will need a line up shaft to put it back on the flywheel.

Offline killjoy

  • Joined: Jun 2011
  • Posts: 32

Re: Engine Seating

« Reply #12 on: March 09, 2012, 10:38:34 PM »
hey guys, sorry its been a few days. Ive been pretty feverishly working on the bug. I did go ahead and pull that washer out of the fingers with a couple of screwdrivers, and the engine mounted up great. Now onto the brakes. Probably 20 years of rust on those drums, so getting them off is going to be a trick all its own.
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