Hey Everybody,

I have this stock 40 horse with a Solex 28 and for some strange reason the fuel won't stop after the engine is shut down. I have checked the float and it has no holes. The needle and seat is new. I even tried another new one. I put both 1.0 and .5 washers together and fuel still seeps out the butterfly when shut down. How much washer does one needle and seat need? Any ideas is always appreciated.

Thanks,

Mark

Do you have an electric fuel pump?  The cheaper ones are notorious for running too much pressure.

No..Heehee..., but you think that, the way it is flowing. She is bone stock.

Mark

   
  Yep, I bet that is it KC. Dag nabbit, I knew that rod was the shorter one when I replaced the pump and spacer-mount plate that was cracked. That should be the reason why if I indeed find I installed the longer rod.


Many thanks,


Mark

Just make sure that it is the right one for your fuel pump. The longer one is for the generator fuel pump. The shorter one is for the Alternator fuel pump (kicked over a few degrees to facilitate easy changing it when you have an Alternator installed).

Quote

The fuel pump used with an alternator uses a 4" pushrod. The fuel pump used with a generator used a 4-1/2" pushrod. However, to make it more complicated SOME 15 degree-angle pumps can have the lever/arm way up in there and actually need a 4-1/4" pushrod. Make sure you have a pushrod of the correct length for your system.

from: http://www.vw-resource.com/fuel_pump.html

Apparently there was a middle length one as well!

I checked. It has the 4" and 1/2" spacer. So......I still dumb-founded..!!

Do you have a generator fuel pump or an alternator fuel pump? (the generator is relatively flat and the alternator is tipped to the side about 15 degrees).

The spacer is not included in the length of the push rod.

Right, 4" is the length of the rod itself.

It is a alternator pump. It was converted to a 12v.

The short push rod is used only on the Angle Pump. The long rod would have destroyed the angle pump.  I have never had to adjust the insulator block with add gaskets in 48 years. You do have to do that on the side mount 36 hp pump.  I have had a ton of trouble with needle &seats in the later kits . I end up putting the old one back and the problem was gone.  Does your engine flood and hard to start when after  sitting ?  Are your throttle shafts worn out ?

Thanks Nick....!!

I forgot the extra gasket spacing between the pump and spacer or insulator. Rob and Daves site rang the bell. That's all she needs is one more gasket I bet. I haven't checked the pressure with a gauge, but I think that may be the deal. I hope it is. Will let you know.

Many thanks,

Mark

I just checked "Rob & Dave" site where Rob states that he hasn't ever seen a stuck insulator block. He must not have worked on VW's very long.  I can't recall how many of those blocks I have dug out of crankcases over the years but if you think for a min. that I'm going take the engine out of the car ,invert it to dump/shake the pieces out or split the case is insane. Even with the engine apart you will still have to break up the broken off piece to get it out. I have seen new blocks(after market) that I had to sand the bottom dia. down just to get it to fit in. I have a method to do this job without going through all of that totally unnecessary  labor with tap's, self-tapping screws. I'm not going to "tell how" because no one will believe me.

Quote from: Ret.Bugtech on December 04, 2012, 09:41:27 AM

I'm not going to "tell how" because no one will believe me.

I refuse to believe you can do this UNTIL you tell us. 

I'm just saying...

And I'm just saying. When you run into the problem I will then tell you and only then . Oh ! By the way ,there is only 2 fuel pump rods that you need to worry about. There is a possibility the 36 hp pump rod is different. I don't remember. Its been way to long since I worked on a 36hp. There are so many crappy after-market pumps out there so who knows how many rods exist now.