Hello, my 67 beetle starts very easily when cold but if i drive it and it warms up, it is then very hard to start.  Im about positive its flooded when I shut it down.  I smell gas- it seems to also have the classic sysmptoms of being flooded.  after I let it sit and cool down it will start right back up. The after market fuel pump pressure is 3 PSI.

Thanks
Kevin Gabor

Points closed up,  timing slow, carb set to rich or just dirty. Choke not "pulling " all the way off after warm up.  You could pull the plugs and see how "smutty(fouled)" they are.  If they are black after driving awhile kind'a tells me you are running rich. Sniff your dip stick and see if it smells "gassy" Check your fuel milage .  All of this is internet guessing.

I'll go with "vacuum leak" for $500, Alex.
-check the clamps on the intake if it is a DP.
-Check the clamp down nuts on the intakes for either SP or DP.
KC

It's a single port- vacuum leak where? Are you talking about the 2 nuts attaching the carb?

Those nuts and the 10mm nuts where the intake fastens to the heads BUT be careful . You can over-torque those 10mm nuts and possibly break them off.  Its pretty rare to find vacuum leaks at that point on a single port engine unless the last Mechanic failed to do the job right.  A intake leak will normally cause a rough idle or even stalling  Hot or cold but a little worse when hot. If the engine runs and idles fine after you get it started tells me that something else is going on. Just remember you are up there and we are down here and don't have a "hands on" deal.  I will tell you this. About 40 years a old VW mechanic told me that most of the time the so called fuel/ carb problems turned out to be some little electrical glitch and he was so right.  I never forgot that all those years I was in the VW trade.  You are driving, in my estimation, one of the best VW bugs ever built if its all original. Keep it that way

To clarify some- its really not a strong smell of raw gas, its just the faint smell you often get with a flooded engine.-not a  "carbeque" waiting to happen by any means. Yes - I imagine its very hard to remedy with zero eyes or hands on the car.  I will check into each of these suggestions and elliminate them one by one and keep you all posted.  Thanks for taking the time to respond- its very much appreciated.  The car will always remain in the original config- wouldnt have it any other way.  I got a feeling it is the choke sticking.  Could gas be seeping past a worn rubber bushing/jet when its hot and not when its cold?  Thanks again guys!!!!! its a comfort to have you here.
Kevin   

The godfather said it well when he said most carb problems are electrical. I would double check those items prior to tweaking the carb around just because its never really easy to get the carb back where it was. I know a lot of people start turning screws only to get confused and then they find out it was something else and they have to figure out what they did wrong to the carb.

IF you do anything to the carb, turn the adjustment screws in until they bottom out and COUNT THE NUMBER OF TURNS it takes to bottom out and write them down. Then put it back to where it started and then make your adjustments. If you then find out everything was right and something electrical was the original problem, you can reset your carb to the original settings. This is a do what I say, not what I do sort of thing...

Very true.  And remember, on your carb you only have one screw for mixture on the left. Do this for your choke:  go out in the morning before you start your engine and pull your linkage out a little by hand and see if the "idle cam"( The one with notches) flips on. If it does go drive for a few miles. Then shut the engine off and run back and see if the idle cam has returned to its starting point (before you moved it while it was cold) Then report to us what you found.

Quote from: kevingabor on August 28, 2012, 06:22:36 AM

It's a single port- vacuum leak where? Are you talking about the 2 nuts attaching the carb?

Those nuts and the 10mm nuts where the intake fastens to the heads BUT be careful . You can over-torque those 10mm nuts and possibly break them off.  Its pretty rare to find vacuum leaks at that point on a single port engine unless the last Mechanic failed to do the job right.  A intake leak will normally cause a rough idle or even stalling  Hot or cold but a little worse when hot. If the engine runs and idles fine after you get it started tells me that something else is going on. Just remember you are up there and we are down here and don't have a "hands on" deal.  I will tell you this. About 40 years a old VW mechanic told me that most of the time the so called fuel/ carb problems turned out to be some little electrical glitch and he was so right.  I never forgot that all those years I was in the VW trade.  You are driving, in my estimation, one of the best VW bugs ever built if its all original. Keep it that way

A friend's Beetle was acting like this, turns out it was a sketchy coil.