67 beetle update

kevingabor · « **on:** August 29, 2012, 07:24:54 PM »

Gentlemen, my hot engine starting problem is gone. The butterfly/ choke was not straight open when hot. We put a slight adjustment to the spring to hold it open when hot. It started several times when hot. Which brings me to my new problem guys - my engine is HOT! I checked oil temp after a drive with a turkey deep fryer long thermometer. 220 degrees!!! I've always suspected it. There is positively air flow though. I checked with a note book piece of paper - below my rear window the paper sucked to the vent when running but not when engine stopped. I also felt all up under the engine while running at higher RPM- there is hot air blowing all around the engine underneath. My timing is set to 32 degrees advanced. Why so hot???Too hot to drive it now I know. I'm stumped.
Kevin Gabor.

attack chicken · « **Reply #1 on:** August 29, 2012, 07:39:05 PM »

Glad to hear it was just the choke. How did you set the timing? Does the distributor have a vacuum advance or is it mechanical? Timing light with advance and retard settings?

kevingabor · « **Reply #2 on:** August 29, 2012, 08:59:09 PM »

There is no vacuum advance. It is mechanical, 009 distributor. We used a timing light to set the timing to 32 degrees advance.

attack chicken · « **Reply #3 on:** August 29, 2012, 09:56:50 PM »

32 is right at the safe limit. Given the various degrees of wear and quality of the 009's out there, it can be very easy to over advance the timing. You should be using a adjustable timing light, hold the engine speed to at least 2500 rpm to make sure the advance mechanism is at full advance then dial the timing light to around 30 degrees. Then put the timing mark on the pulley on the case seam. BUT there may be more than 1 mark on the crank pulley, some marks are close to each other and could be very easy to set the timing on the wrong mark. Probably wouldn't want to set it below 28 and never above 32. If that sounds like the way you did it and the correct mark was used then we can move on to the next step.

Ret.Bugtech · « **Reply #4 on:** August 29, 2012, 10:08:47 PM »

Quote from: kevingabor on August 29, 2012, 07:24:54 PM

Gentlemen, my hot engine starting problem is gone. The butterfly/ choke was not straight open when hot. We put a slight adjustment to the spring to hold it open when hot. It started several times when hot. Which brings me to my new problem guys - my engine is HOT! I checked oil temp after a drive with a turkey deep fryer long thermometer. 220 degrees!!! I've always suspected it. There is positively air flow though. I checked with a note book piece of paper - below my rear window the paper sucked to the vent when running but not when engine stopped. I also felt all up under the engine while running at higher RPM- there is hot air blowing all around the engine underneath. My timing is set to 32 degrees advanced. Why so hot???Too hot to drive it now I know. I'm stumped.
Kevin Gabor.

What do you mean that you put a slight adjustment to the spring ? How many timing notches do you have on your pulley ?

kevingabor · « **Reply #5 on:** August 29, 2012, 10:19:23 PM »

My neighbor who is a pretty good mechanic-slightly advanced the spring / heater after loosening the 3 small screws (maybe 1/8th inch)?

kevingabor · « **Reply #6 on:** August 29, 2012, 10:22:17 PM »

3 notches on my pulley.

Ret.Bugtech · « **Reply #7 on:** August 29, 2012, 11:08:04 PM »

Quote from: kevingabor on August 29, 2012, 10:22:17 PM

3 notches on my pulley.

OK You have 2 notches right together on the back rim of the pulley. Going clockwise from the center line of the case, The first notch is 7 1/2 degrees and the other one is 10 degrees and 1 notch by it's self is 0 degrees.( left of the 2 notches) Use the "0" notch if you have a timing light with the degree advance knob. Set the knob to 32 degrees and rev and hold the engine about 2000-2500 rpms and turn the dist until the "0" notch lines up with the center line of the case. Tighten the dist down and recheck.

Ret.Bugtech · « **Reply #8 on:** August 29, 2012, 11:09:17 PM »

Quote from: kevingabor on August 29, 2012, 10:19:23 PM

My neighbor who is a pretty good mechanic-slightly advanced the spring / heater after loosening the 3 small screws (maybe 1/8th inch)?

Correct

volksnick · « **Reply #9 on:** August 30, 2012, 12:53:21 AM »

At the cruise in a few months back we figured out the 3 notch pulley and what was what. We discussed timing an his neighbor (who I met the bed day) got the timing sorted out. Everything looks to be in order as far as I can tell. I did find the #3 plug wire off at the cruise in but that didn't necessarily solve all the issues. The dizzy cap had lost its key to match up to the notch in the dizzy housing so I gave him a decent used one that wouldn't jump around. It's gotta be something else if it's still acting up.

Of course I've been wrong before!!!

kevingabor · « **Reply #10 on:** August 30, 2012, 05:55:58 AM »

Nick, you're right -And I'm missing something basic here. I've suspected it being hot since the day i drove it home when I bought it. The dipstick has been very hot to the touch since I got it. And we were all sure it was hot at the cruise in. The air flow is very obvious. The thermometer in the oil dipstick well confirmed it now. Do you remember at the cruise in someone noticed my fan shroud had been replaced by a later model one? Just a thought but then again the airflow seems fine. Is there anything under the engine that can direct or limit the airflow? Is there some sort of air restricter device I'm missing?

volksnick · « **Reply #11 on:** August 30, 2012, 08:27:53 AM »

Yes, this car has the doghouse oil cooler upgrade. At the cruise in, I lifted the rear hatch and the deck lid and about burned my hand! It was HOT

As for tin, there is a small square of tin that snaps between the cylinders that keeps the airflow up close to the actual cylinders instead of the easier path that is the large gap between them. It appears to be an air block at first glance, so a lot of people leave them off in a rebuild. If you can view the bottom side of the cylinders, you should be able to see them. They are about 3"x3". The "sled" tin that attaches between the block and the heat exchangers might block the view but should be held on with tin screws. By removing a few, you might be able to see around them and verify this important piece of tin.

Have you adjusted the valves again? Maybe clarify the process so the peanut gallery can verify you performed it correctly.

Ret.Bugtech · « **Reply #12 on:** August 30, 2012, 08:39:17 AM »

Quote from: kevingabor on August 30, 2012, 05:55:58 AM

Nick, you're right -And I'm missing something basic here. I've suspected it being hot since the day i drove it home when I bought it. The dipstick has been very hot to the touch since I got it. And we were all sure it was hot at the cruise in. The air flow is very obvious. The thermometer in the oil dipstick well confirmed it now. Do you remember at the cruise in someone noticed my fan shroud had been replaced by a later model one? Just a thought but then again the airflow seems fine. Is there anything under the engine that can direct or limit the airflow? Is there some sort of air restricter device I'm missing?

OK Kevin , This has gone far enough. I WANT TO SEE THIS CAR . THERE IS NO ROCKET SCIENCE HERE on a '67 Type -1 stock single port engine besides there are getting way to many Fingers in the pie which I know can lead to a lot of confusion and now a question about a "later' fan shroud.

Ret.Bugtech · « **Reply #13 on:** August 30, 2012, 09:05:06 AM »

Well, Nick jumped me. Those "heat deflector plates" are as important as putting oil in the engine. I hope they are on there as they are almost impossible to put on CORRECTLY without removing the cly. heads. I have seen those "plates" installed on TOP of the clys instead on the bottom. Were the cooler seals (4) the right ones ? Two of the seals are special for cooler to crankcase modifications and they can swell up and close off the oil cooler if they are wrong. There is no way to tell until you take the shroud/cooler off.

ASBug · « **Reply #14 on:** August 30, 2012, 09:57:21 AM »

Later fan shroud + original non Doghouse fan = hot engine, am I right David?
You have to put the wider fan in the later dog house.
That could be the problem, just bolted the stock unit back into the newer style dog house.

To the OP:
David doesn't live very far from the cruise in location...
Drop by one evening and he'll tell you where to go next.
Just do not show up in a bus or he'll tell you where to go period.
LOL,
KC

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Topic: 67 beetle update (Read 8146 times)

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67 beetle update

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