63 with a cough

Ret.Bugtech · « **Reply #15 on:** March 01, 2013, 08:24:16 AM »

Quote from: ASBug on February 28, 2013, 10:53:56 PM

I hope the brake problem is in the front or you will need a torque buddy to help you...
rear axle nuts are on at ~300 ft. Lbs.
KC

Don't forget about the Master cyl. and flex hoses( at the wheels) just in case you don't have any history on those parts. Also I would take a peek at the front to rear metal line. That line has a history of rusting though right around the area by the pedal cluster due to your muddy/wet clodhoppers . You will see a supply of brake fluid under the floor mat , That is if you have one. Please use the BEST parts you can find. Keep us posted if you run into a glitch .

Got Bug ? · « **Reply #16 on:** March 01, 2013, 08:45:28 PM »

The leaking wheel cylinder is on the left front. At least I think it is...that's where all of my new brake fluid is running out and I believe that to be a clue.
I decided to do all four axles because of it's age and I have no history of any previous brake work.
So...I just got front/rear shoes, all four wheel cylinders, master cylinder and the four rubber hoses.
I remember removing a rear drum years ago on a '62 ragtop that I had and was thinking the nut was around 230-240 ft/lbs, so expect a struggle.
I can't remember how I did it last time, but then I can't usually remember what I ate for lunch either.
Seems like it involved a long section of waterpipe pinned between two lug nuts and another section of water pipe over a pull handle. Oh yeah, and a shade tree.

Ret.Bugtech · « **Reply #17 on:** March 01, 2013, 10:30:44 PM »

Quote from: Got Bug ? on March 01, 2013, 08:45:28 PM

The leaking wheel cylinder is on the left front. At least I think it is...that's where all of my new brake fluid is running out and I believe that to be a clue.
I decided to do all four axles because of it's age and I have no history of any previous brake work.
So...I just got front/rear shoes, all four wheel cylinders, master cylinder and the four rubber hoses.
I remember removing a rear drum years ago on a '62 ragtop that I had and was thinking the nut was around 230-240 ft/lbs, so expect a struggle.
I can't remember how I did it last time, but then I can't usually remember what I ate for lunch either.
Seems like it involved a long section of waterpipe pinned between two lug nuts and another section of water pipe over a pull handle. Oh yeah, and a shade tree.

No air wrench ? Then maybe a trip to a tire store and convince them to take the nuts off then put them back on at about 20 lb's, put the cotter pin back in then go home and whiz them off . A whole lot less cussing

volksnick · « **Reply #18 on:** March 01, 2013, 10:53:53 PM »

Quote from: Ret.Bugtech on March 01, 2013, 10:30:44 PM

Quote from: Got Bug ? on March 01, 2013, 08:45:28 PM
The leaking wheel cylinder is on the left front. At least I think it is...that's where all of my new brake fluid is running out and I believe that to be a clue.
I decided to do all four axles because of it's age and I have no history of any previous brake work.
So...I just got front/rear shoes, all four wheel cylinders, master cylinder and the four rubber hoses.
I remember removing a rear drum years ago on a '62 ragtop that I had and was thinking the nut was around 230-240 ft/lbs, so expect a struggle.
I can't remember how I did it last time, but then I can't usually remember what I ate for lunch either.
Seems like it involved a long section of waterpipe pinned between two lug nuts and another section of water pipe over a pull handle. Oh yeah, and a shade tree.
No air wrench ? Then maybe a trip to a tire store and convince them to take the nuts off then put them back on at about 20 lb's, put the cotter pin back in then go home and whiz them off . A whole lot less cussing

Get a whacker tool for 8 bucks or cut the handrail off the steps at the house and weld a 36mm socket to it like I did. Can you say 10' boxed end wrench?!?!

Zen · « **Reply #19 on:** March 02, 2013, 01:10:02 AM »

Quote from: Bignick on March 01, 2013, 10:53:53 PM

Get a whacker tool for 8 bucks or cut the handrail off the steps at the house and weld a 36mm socket to it like I did. Can you say 10' boxed end wrench?!?!

A 10' boxed end wrench will give you enough torque to 1) break the nut loose or 2) spin the tire or 3) flip the car over. A piece of heavy angle iron with holes drilled to bolt on with two of the lug bolts and hold the wheel in place comes in handy to prevent #2 and #3.

Got Bug ? · « **Reply #20 on:** March 12, 2013, 09:39:51 PM »

I'm not sure what a torque-buddy is, don't have a whacker wrench...only a craftsman 1/2 air wrench. No good with the air wrench. No good with a long Craftsman pull handle. Using a 4 foot piece of rectangular tubing and the pull handle worked for the left axle nut, but not the right. Using the pull handle, the tubing and a floor jack to push upwards on the tubing worked for the right. I guess that little jack can just lift a little more than I can.
New shoes all the way around, new wheel cylinders all around. New master cylinder on the bench waiting. Front drums out to be turned. The front rubber hoses have been replaced already and still have some shine to them. I think I'll replace the rears, they don't look bad, but I guess that now would be the time to do so. I'll check that front to back brake line also.
I plan on tapered bearings and new oil seals for the fronts when I get the drums back.
I've heard this is a three or four hour job for someone who knows what they are doing...I'm going into my second week...and might be finished by May!! Thanks for all the suggestions and advice!!

Ret.Bugtech · « **Reply #21 on:** March 13, 2013, 08:10:02 AM »

Quote from: Got Bug ? on March 12, 2013, 09:39:51 PM

I'm not sure what a torque-buddy is, don't have a whacker wrench...only a craftsman 1/2 air wrench. No good with the air wrench. No good with a long Craftsman pull handle. Using a 4 foot piece of rectangular tubing and the pull handle worked for the left axle nut, but not the right. Using the pull handle, the tubing and a floor jack to push upwards on the tubing worked for the right. I guess that little jack can just lift a little more than I can.
New shoes all the way around, new wheel cylinders all around. New master cylinder on the bench waiting. Front drums out to be turned. The front rubber hoses have been replaced already and still have some shine to them. I think I'll replace the rears, they don't look bad, but I guess that now would be the time to do so. I'll check that front to back brake line also.
I plan on tapered bearings and new oil seals for the fronts when I get the drums back.
I've heard this is a three or four hour job for someone who knows what they are doing...I'm going into my second week...and might be finished by May!! Thanks for all the suggestions and advice!!

They can be tough sometimes. It sounds like you need a little more compressor or that trip to the service station for" sure enough air". To heck with all that beating and banging. All I have ever used is my Ingersoll-Rand 1/2" and lots of C.F.M. AIR. Like the old Hot Rodder said:" There ain't no substitute for cubit inches"

ASBug · « **Reply #22 on:** March 13, 2013, 10:19:46 AM »

google "torque dude" there are videos of it.
lets you take off the nuts with a little 3/8" ratchet...
KC

Ret.Bugtech · « **Reply #23 on:** March 13, 2013, 11:25:33 AM »

Quote from: ASBug on March 13, 2013, 10:19:46 AM

google "torque dude" there are videos of it.
lets you take off the nuts with a little 3/8" ratchet...
KC

Good idea. But I won't trade my air wrench for one. No air ?? Then this is the thing to have. I would think a 1/2 inch version would be a lot better. That Guy was putting a lot of stress on that little 3/8 ratchet. Your fist is going to get to the ground if little ratchet decides to come apart. Still it is a clever tool. $82 bucks+ shipping ?? I have other tricks to get those BIG Type-2 rear nuts off. They are the worse when they get stuck.

volksnick · « **Reply #24 on:** March 13, 2013, 11:32:32 AM »

William bought one a while back. It allows you to bolt it to all of the wheels and the flywheel. I'm not certain it does the 46mm nuts though. Pretty cool, but the whacker tool is sooooo much cheaper...

Ret.Bugtech · « **Reply #25 on:** March 13, 2013, 12:05:50 PM »

Quote from: Bignick on March 13, 2013, 11:32:32 AM

William bought one a while back. It allows you to bolt it to all of the wheels and the flywheel. I'm not certain it does the 46mm nuts though. Pretty cool, but the whacker tool is sooooo much cheaper...

They just mention the 36mm. I would bet that a 3/8 ratchet wouldn't come close trying to get a 46mm off. Maybe a much larger version. If you Guys were making a living working on these things everyday it wouldn't take you long to learn to love a big compressor and a decent air wrench. A few times I have seen that even Big air won't take the 46mm off without some help (tricks,tricks) How many times after you beat and bang the nuts off you find out the drum is just as stuck ? Rig up some kind of puller ?? Not me (more tricks). Ask William about getting Mike's rear drums off his Rat-Rod. He got them off but what a "Rig".

Ret.Bugtech · « **Reply #26 on:** March 13, 2013, 12:31:03 PM »

But, that little tool and a BIG 46mm whacker will do just fine for the week end mechanic. After all, how many times are you going to do the job ?? That is if you do the job right the first time.
Nick, Sometime when you drop by, I'll show you a real "Whacker" tool. I don't think they make these anymore. I loaned my 46mm whacker to a friend and he moved out of town with my whacker never to be seen again. I could have killed him.

ASBug · « **Reply #27 on:** March 13, 2013, 01:06:43 PM »

There is a cheat on the internet to use an old gland nut welded into that large 46mm socket to allow the torque dude to take off the old nasty bus ones as well.
I am going to have to get one but I feel all in at $75 inc. shipping.
Haven't found one yet...
They are going down in price over the past few years.
KC

Ret.Bugtech · « **Reply #28 on:** March 13, 2013, 03:58:29 PM »

Quote from: ASBug on March 13, 2013, 01:06:43 PM

There is a cheat on the internet to use an old gland nut welded into that large 46mm socket to allow the torque dude to take off the old nasty bus ones as well.
I am going to have to get one but I feel all in at $75 inc. shipping.
Haven't found one yet...
They are going down in price over the past few years.
KC

Sound like that might hurt if it broke. I'll pass on that one for sure.

ASBug · « **Reply #29 on:** March 13, 2013, 04:20:18 PM »

Quote from: Ret.Bugtech on March 13, 2013, 03:58:29 PM

Quote from: ASBug on March 13, 2013, 01:06:43 PM
There is a cheat on the internet to use an old gland nut welded into that large 46mm socket to allow the torque dude to take off the old nasty bus ones as well.
I am going to have to get one but I feel all in at $75 inc. shipping.
Haven't found one yet...
They are going down in price over the past few years.
KC
Sound like that might hurt if it broke. I'll pass on that one for sure.

OLD FART...
KC

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Topic: 63 with a cough (Read 11900 times)

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