If I replace the master cyl again. it will be my 3rd one in 5 years is that common with cheap mexican brake cyl's?
No, that's not common; most of the time a cheap one won't last that long. And don't just assume that it's Mexican because it's cheap . . . they are usually much better quality and last much longer than the REALLY cheap ones that come from India or China.
Anyway, go ahead and empty your wallet and get the best quality you can find. Clean out your fluid reservoir and pipes with brake parts cleaner before you install the new master cylinder. Use new, clean, good quality fluid (In other words, don’t try to recycle the old brake fluid. It’s bad for the environment. It puts cars in the scrape yard. Use the old fluid for paint remover, ant killer, or something else that’s more environmental friendly).
After you put it all back together, pressure bleed the system to remove ALL the air and ALL of the old fluid. By the way, if you don’t pressure bleed and you doing the old two person pump/hold/bleed method, you should always bleed the front brakes first, rear brakes last on a Beetle. Sounds crazy, but it’s true. David informed me about this several years ago . . . I tried it and he’s right. Until you get the air out of the front, you can’t get the air out of the back. Something to do with the way the master cylinder is designed with a floating piston for one side of the circuit.
Anyway, after you get the air out, adjust the shoes tight against the drums then back them off slightly. Don’t back ‘em off till they quit rubbing the drums or you’ll have to pump ‘em out against the drums every time before you can start stopping.
Make sure you buckle up before you take off down the road. Super Beetles actually have great brakes if you get them working right. If you get them right and aren’t use to them, you’ll get up close and personal with the windshield the first time you slam ‘em on! Don’t ask me how I know that.
