Zen , What is wrong with Homers case ?
I haven't split the case, so I'm not sure, but I think the bearings have started getting loose in the case. When I pulled the engine out back in October to tighten up the loose head, the end play was almost undetectable . . . It clunks around pretty good now.
One of the type 2 mounting points is cracked. This home-made rear brace has two corners that hang really low. I dropped in a pot hole in the road a while back and the corner of the mount hit the ground and bent it back several inches, pulled one of the bolts out and caused a slight crack on the outside of the case (between the bolt hole and the outside of the case). The bolt tightened up in the hole, but it's just a matter of time . . .
I've had three different engines in Homer. Two worn out single ports and this "rebuilt" dual port (I think it was rebuilt with slightly used parts) that I bought a Taccoa 2 and half years ago. As for power and drivablity, I'll take one of those worn out single ports any day of the week. Homer will run faster with this dual port . . . but you gott'a get moving before you can run fast. The single ports had more low end torque. If you have a half ton of key blanks in a bay window bus and you're starting out with 100 CCs less than stock . . . you NEED low end torque!
I could just put in some new seals in the engine to stop the oil leaks, bolt all this stuff back together, and probably be OK for a while. But, I want to start from scratch and for once, build a good engine. Homer deserves it.
Then, I can take this engine that's in Homer now . . . well, laying on the ground in pieces behind Homer . . . and take it apart, check it out and build it back up right. At that point, I'm going to build a roof rack for Homer, shrink wrap the spare engine and carry it around. Never again will I be at the mercy of swap meet vendors if I drop a valve 150 mile from home!
