A few things I see in the picts that need to be addressed:

1.  It appears that the rear tin is missing.  This piece is supposed to block the hot air being expelled underneath the engine from being pulled back into the engine bay.  Going down the road with the tin missing, you'll suck the already heated air back in and try to cool the engine with it.  The longer and faster you run, the hotter your engine will get until something finally locks down or breaks.  That one needs to be fixed pronto.  The good news is, somebody around here probably has an extra they would let you have for cheap . . . maybe even free.

2.  Fresh air outlets for the heater box not connected or blocked off.  With no resistance, you'll loose too much cool air through the outlets and cut back on the amount of air avalible to cool the engine.  Again, and easy fix.  If you don't hook up the heater boxes, you can block off the outlets . . . I've seen (and used) all kinds of creative ways to stop the air flow . . . the bottom half of a coke can and a hose clamp works if you can't come up with anything better.

3.  I don't see an adaptor plate under the carb, so I am assuming it's a 34 (stock size for a dual port) . . . I also see you have a 009 distributor (centrifical spark advance only, no vacuum advance).  I've tried out 1,000 theroies on how to make that combanation work well . . . none of them worked for me.  You will save yourself a lot of headaches if you buy a new new 30/31 carb (stock for a single port engine) and an adaptor to bolt it to your dual port intake.  Another option would be find a good vacuum advance distributor designed to work with your carb . . . but I've had lots of problems with flat spots on accelration even then . . . I recommend buying a new carb.  It'll probably set you back $150, but you'll save that in asprin!

Wow, ya know the more I learn here the more I realize I have NO clue what the heck I'm doing.

Well ! That pretty well covers that. Do you know any history on the engine ?

Ret.Bugtech, No sir, no history at all other than the M-Plate findings. I'm told she was a barn find from the guy I bought her from in Maryville.

Zen, Thanks for the help. I'm glad you guys are here and willing to share your knowledge.
So I want to make sure I understand what I need to do.
1. I need to get the rear tin in place.
2. Plug the fresh air outlets on the heater boxes. (I'll try the coke can trick for now)
3. Get a new carb.

So I'll park her until I get 1 and 2 complete and order the new carb this week.

You mention that I'll need an adapter for the new carb to bolt it to the dual port intake. Is there a better carb out there that I should get and not use the adapter? A carb that would bolt right to the dual port intake? Or is the 30/31 stock carb with and adapter the way to go? If I'm going to do it I want to get it right, right?

Wow, lol, I'm in over my head.....

Thanks again
Scott

No clue if they're the same (sure hope so) but I really appreciate you checking for me.

Thanks
Scott

I sent my cell# to you in a msg .

The rear tin off any 66 or later Beetle should work.

The 34 carbs used on dual port engines have a larger throat than a 30/31 so the mounting flanges are slightly different sizes.  A "single port carb" (30/31) won't directly bolt to the larger dual port intake, but just about any place that sells carbs will also sell the single ort carb to dual port manifold adaptor.

The 34 carbs used on dual port engines are designed for reduced emmisions and for them to perform well, they need the advance curve that was built into the original distributor.  The "009" works good with most carb set-ups, but I've never seen an engine running a "009" and 34 carb that didn't stumble, spit and sputter when you stepped on the gas.  Since a 30/31 is a smaller carb, you will loose some top-end power, but at least you can drive it around town.

I LOVE LIME GREEN AND DIRT!! HA.

That's fantastic Nick. I'll email you in a bit and we'll work out the details.

on the plugs you can measure the hole and go to autozone or any part store and get freeze plugs that size and tap them in

I believe they are 1.75" - ish, and the 2 local FLAPS didn't stock them...
Just a word, NAPA might but neither the Adv or AutoZ did.
KC

So my task list is complete except for the new carb. I'll have to wait a week before I can place the order.
Ethyl starts right up and runs fine til she gets warmed up then stalls when ever I stop or take my foot off the accelerator. Once stalled she starts right up again strong but no idle.
Looks like I'll miss the Sonic meet this week. We get pretty frustrated stalling all the time.  Hopefully the new carb will be installed by the Wally's meet up.

Have a great day everyone.