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Author Topic: Timing Belt change  (Read 1045 times)
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LeftLaneDriver93

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Chattanooga, TN
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« on: January 10, 2012, 07:11:47 PM »

I have heard several different answers on this so I wanted to ask you kind people, when is the best time to change your timing belt? I have a shop in Memphis that I would prefer to go to, and I am going back there next month. My car has 78,000 miles, and I have had it for over 11k of that, I have always babied it since I've had it (with the exception of spirited driving once in a while)
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Russ
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Ringgold, GA
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« Reply #1 on: January 10, 2012, 07:27:27 PM »

I wouldn't want to go much past 80k without changing it. I can refer you to my mechanic if needed.
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Zen
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LaFayette, GA
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« Reply #2 on: January 10, 2012, 07:48:25 PM »

I have heard several different answers on this so I wanted to ask you kind people, when is the best time to change your timing belt?

At the risk of sounding like a smart@$$ . . . the best time to change it is before it breaks!  When will that happen?  Only the shadow knows.  It might last 200,000 miles, but once it's passed 75K, I'd start wondering how much longer it would last.

I changed the belt on my 96 Passat (2.0 ABA Engine) at around 60K because the tension roller had locked down and the back of the belt was worn down until it was about the thickness of a piece of paper.  When I pulled the cover off and saw what the belt looked like, I was afraid to even start it and let it idle.  I was able to change it myself, and it really wasn't that hard or expensive, but I have a fairly simple engine.  If it's a turbo, VR6, or diesel, it won't be as simple or as cheap as mine was, but . . . it's still WAY cheaper to pay someone to change the belt early than it is to wait until it breaks.
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dubtech
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Hixson
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« Reply #3 on: January 10, 2012, 10:37:46 PM »

VR6 engines have timing chains, not a belt.  There's no suggested interval for replacing the chains but the guides break long before the chains do.  It's a pricey job since the transmission has to be removed to access the timing chains.

The chains on my car lasted over 180K miles but the upper guides were absolutely gone.  I took one of them out in 3 pieces.  You can pull the upper timing chain cover to inspect them if you're really worried.
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LeftLaneDriver93

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Chattanooga, TN
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« Reply #4 on: January 10, 2012, 11:54:10 PM »

VR6 engines have timing chains, not a belt.
well that's what I meant. I will look and let y'all know what I find.

Also, Russ, what shop do you go to?
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Russ
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Ringgold, GA
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« Reply #5 on: January 11, 2012, 12:00:26 AM »

You have a VR6? Yeah no timing belt like the 1.8Ts or 2.0s. You can call my buddy Sal if you like at (423) 421-1496. He's in Chickamauga and handles the work on my Audi and anything else around that I can't fix. Tell him I gave you his number.

Another trustworthy shop is Rick at R&M Automotive Repair on Highway 58. (423) 305-1861.
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LeftLaneDriver93

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Chattanooga, TN
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« Reply #6 on: January 11, 2012, 12:26:40 PM »

Yeah I meant timing chain. Ok thanks for the numbers. I will do that sometime soon.
« Last Edit: January 11, 2012, 12:29:04 PM by LeftLaneDriver93 » Logged
LeftLaneDriver93

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Chattanooga, TN
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« Reply #7 on: February 06, 2012, 12:46:31 PM »

So I decided not to make another thread, but carry on with this one.... Anyways, Saturday night I took some friends to wal-mart, and when I turned my car back on, the display said ALTERNATOR WORKSHOP! and then the battery light came on. I lost power steering, and the engine would not stay at running (190) temperature, it gradually went up and after about 15 minutes from a cold start it reached 240 degrees. It stayed at 190 for a few minutes, then kept going. It also was idling quite rough. I have just a little knowledge of cars (one of the reasons I'm here) and I believe it might be the water pump or oil pump and/or the thermometer?
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travisyoung

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Redbank
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« Reply #8 on: February 06, 2012, 01:22:52 PM »

Gotta be something with the drive belt,  it drives the alt and water pump,  could be a bad tensioner or pulley
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certdubtech
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In the Garage...
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« Reply #9 on: February 06, 2012, 01:56:20 PM »

I agree with Travis.

Belt drives the water pump on this engine... 1.) don't drive it if it's doing any (or all) of what you said before having it checked.  A VR6 will get real expensive, real quick.

Check the belt and tensioner, like he said... pay particular attention to the pulley on the tensioner.  I have seen more than one where someone thought it was just fine, not realizing that the tensioner pulley had actually melted from a defective bearing, and the belt was just dragging across what was left. 

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travisyoung

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Redbank
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« Reply #10 on: February 06, 2012, 03:47:35 PM »

I made it to Chattanooga from Valdosta with my 96 vr6 with a malted pulley,  could not run the Ac , have no idea how it made it home
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LeftLaneDriver93

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Chattanooga, TN
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« Reply #11 on: February 06, 2012, 04:34:46 PM »

Well it's going to R&M so I'll let you know how it goes.
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